Water, water!

[huntvambo]

I do a lot of reading on this forum but not much posting, so here goes...

I have a large (92cm x 64cm), signed, limited edition (50) print to frame. The artist has provided the mount; the window mount is 2mm thick, the back mount 1.4mm, the two pieces of mountcard are hinged along the top. No identification markings on the mounts so no idea of the quality of the card!

The print has been taped, front of print, to the back mount along the full 92cm length, looks like pH7 - 70 or something similar.

So first two questions:

1. Should I ask what type of mountcard has been used and advise that conservation level, as a minimum, should be used?

2. Should I tell the artist that taping to the front of the print along the full length is not advisable? It's quite a heavy print and would easily take 4 or 5 hinges.

I was shown where the framed print is to be displayed, in the kitchen, above the sink and cooker, about 20cm above the sink. I suggested, quite strongly, that this wasn't the best place but they are adamant that this is where they want it. So question number 3

3. Should I seal the mounted print to the glass to try and prevent water damage etc. ? What would be the best tape for sealing the mount to the glass? Lion do an archival self adhesive frame sealing tape, any good?

4. I suggested using Art-Bak conservation backing board which at least has a "water resistant" coating. Any better suggestions?

Your thoughts, in writing, would be much appreciated.

Thanks to everyone for the information you are always willing to share on this forum.

[Bagpuss]

Well I took some advice about this recently, I'm doing 3 mounted prints in a single frame ( about a metre wide ) and the customer is hanging it in their bathroom ?? I was given a few suggestions , using a sheet of Polypropylene Corrugated Board (white stuff ) as the backing board, or Conservatek which has a silver water-proof side ( from Glass&Mirror ) . I was also advised to use that Frame sealing Tape from LION which has an Aluminium core to seal up the sandwich and finally seal up the back with the same tape. I thought I would use the Conservatek and have the shiny silver side facing outwards.

I'm sure others have different tips on waterproofing but I just thought I'd pass that on.
Good luck with it.
cheers
Adam (Bagpuss)

[huntvambo]

Thanks for the reply Adam, I think I'll follow your suggestion with the Correx and frame sealing tape.

No disrespect to you but I'm a bit disappointed that none of the more "Senior" member haven't contributed with their years of knowledge Especially as the forum seems to have been a bit devoid of framing questions lately.

[iantheframer]

We did a frame for a bathroom a while ago.
We glazed it with laminated glass, it was quite large. We sealed the glass into the frame using a clear silicon sealant. For the backing we used a sheet of acrylic, again sealed with silicon sealant. Not entirely sure of the rights and wrongs, but the customer is delighted, it hangs in a steamy bathroom and remains unaffected by the moisture.

[Bagpuss]

No disrespect to you but I'm a bit disappointed that none of the more "Senior" member haven't contributed with their years of knowledge

I started picture framing in 1990 and have rapidly greying hair, not quite 'Senior' but no spring chicken

[Roboframer]

.... I'm a bit disappointed that none of the more "Senior" member haven't contributed with their years of knowledge Especially as the forum seems to have been a bit devoid of framing questions lately.

I agree!

Anyway - fluted plastic backing or acrylic and then the undermount, mount and glass taped together with foil tape is good - seal the back with the same tape.

Acrylic on the front instead of glass would also be good as it heats and cools at a faster rate than glass/closer to the rate of the rest of the frame contents than glass, so will cause less condensation problems.

Regards the mount and mounting - is it safe to remove that strip of tape or best to leave it? - and if the mount/undermount has a white core I'd not worry TOO much - unless you are going to use UV glass/acrylic as it would probably be affected by UV light before low quality boards.

[Not your average framer]

No disrespect to you but I'm a bit disappointed that none of the more "Senior" member haven't contributed with their years of knowledge Especially as the forum seems to have been a bit devoid of framing questions lately.

Hi Huntvambo,

Expecting a fast response from something posted at the weekend is not something you can count on in this business, so please don't be too hard on those more senior members. It's only two working days later and we are at our busiest and more tired immediately afer Saturday.

O.K., I do a lot of waterproof framing. Devon is a damp county, I'm on the edge of Dartmoor and lots of houses around here are made of granite and are cold and damp. Many old granite built houses have fires burning almost all year round with the warm air forming condensation on the inside of those cold solid granite walls. Some of these houses are built into the sides of hills or even cut into the surrounding granite. Damp is something I need to know about!

So here's my take on how to do this:

Waterproof framing is a speciality, it takes more time to do, the materials cost more and it is right that this should be fully reflected in the price charged for something most framers can't be bothered to do.

I use the Linco frame sealing tape, (it's in the Lion catalogue, etc.).

Take the sharp edges off from the glass with a suitable abrasive stone or diamond dust pad, to stop the glass cutting into the tape. Clean the glass well!

Tape around the front edge of the glass and around the whole package, (mounts, art, undermount and backing). Burnish the tape down well, to ensure that it is fully sealed.

I use Conseratek as my waterproof backing board and tape directly to the aluminim foil side which I deliberately place facing to the rear. This way both aluminium barriers connect!

I then place a second layer of Conservatek behind this with the brown side facing to the rear, so that the framers points cannot come into contact with the Linco tape or the aluminium barrier on the first backing board. This prevents damaging the tape or the foil on the board when fixing with the framers points.

Finally I tape this second board to the frame with Kikisui brown kraft tape which has a silicone coated, water-resistant surface. Works a treat, every time. Don't forget to charge enough for doing this!

[WelshFramer]

And don't forget to put some spacers on the back of the frame to keep it away from the wall. I normally use Lion's felt pads but in a damp atmosphere I'd use their plastic foam ones - maybe using one on top of the other to ensure theirs a good gap for air circulation.

[huntvambo]

Dear All,

Thank you for the responses. It's always nice to know you are on the right track and heading in the right direction, even if not on the most direct route. Hopefully with the above advice the job will be a good 'un

... and now for my next question, please see cockling and creasing