Stacked mouldings for shadow boxes

[Roboframer]

Anyone else done this?

I've chosen flat profiles for the sides, but they don't have to be. Beats the look of a box frame poking out the back, for me anyway.

Makes for an expensive moulding - the number shown in brackets for the Nielsen ones (397 = £3:97 per foot)is the list per foot for the two mouldings combined - (£2:09 for the LJ Ferrosa ones) better could be done with plain woods on price but there is still the extra labour and that cost per foot does not include making flush and lining spacers. I would swallow that on a high end moulding combination - I'd have to or I'd not shift it, but methods of mounting whatever it is going in to something this deep will have ways of including that and I'll have a damn good go at selling mueum glass with it too. Plus - quote the price with it and suddenly the price without seems much better!

The spacers shown consist of 3 strips of 5mm foam board plus a strip of 4 ply mount board, and then another strip of 3mm foam board and another strip of 4 ply.

[prospero]

Nice One.

That would also be a good method for large oils to give the minimal 'g*llry wrap' look.

[framejunkie]

Yet another great bit of lateral thinking from the maestro!

I suspect the method works better with the veneered mouldings you show than it would with solid wood mouldings - it would be a P in the A to match the grain well, and if it was too different it would look a bit cheap(for such an expensive job)

[Not your average framer]

Hi John,

I particularly like the Larson Jhul Ferrossa combination. An inspired and very stunning choice. I bet that sample will turn a few heads when you put it on display.

[Roboframer]

Hey, this is not my idea - that's why I asked if anyone else had tried it - just a couple of choices of mouldings for an idea I've seen over and over on TFG, plus on PFM links, In one of Jim Miller's books and on a Vivian Kistler DVD. (All from across the pond then - so, what's new?) Just never got around to making the samples 'til now.

I'd prefer, by far, the cap and extender mouldings I asked about on another thread. Wouldn't it be nice, to help with one of the main gripes within our trade - lack of rebate depth, if some suppliers could include, as part of certain 'ranges' a few 'cap' mouldings in each finish and at least two depths of extenders ditto. Each moulding could stand alone in its own right too if the 'tabs' that allow the stacking were finished for effect.

You'd have the option of stacking for a box, or lying flat and mitreing the other way for a normal frame.

[Not your average framer]

Hi John,

I don't normally stack moulding in quite the same way. If I need a moulding with a deeper than normal rebate, I generally start with a deep rebate moulding and then add another moulding behind in the same way as you have shown.

I usually like the rear moulding to have a rounded or scallped sight edge and try to make a feature of the join between the two mouldings rather than trying to hide it. My preference is to hand-finish plain wood mouldings instead using ready finished mouldings.

[prospero]

I used a similar method a while back when a customer bought in an old piece of needlework. It was framed in a very diddly moulding, about 8mm deep and 10mm wide with an ornate running pattern. The rebate was no more than 5mm deep and somehow the glass/back and stretched needlework had been shoehorned in. The glass was cracked (no suprise), which was a pity as the back of the glass was painted black with a gilded edge to form a circular 'mount'. He wanted to keep the frame. There was no way I was going to remount it properly and get it back in the frame. In the end I used some flat ramin moulding about 20mm by 10mm deep which I originally got on sp offer to use as a spacers.
On it's back with the rebate facing forward. it formed a perfect extender for the original frame and only added 2mm to the width of the frame, but enough depth to take a double mount and packing. It also made the whole package a lot stronger.

I heartily agree with Robo's observations. I would be great if moulding manufacturers could design moulding systems where you could use mouldings on their own or combine them with others in the same family to produce varitaions.

[Framer Dave]

Well done. How do you join the face frame and the extender together?

[Roboframer]

Pre-drilled brads and plenty of wood glue. The brads can be pushed right in with a nail set but with the amount of boards needed to make flush, it's usually not a problem if you don't.

[Framer Dave]

Two more questions:

1. The Ferrosa you used as the extender looks like it's flat across its face. I'm not familiar with that one.

2. What are the samples doing on a white leather sofa?

[Roboframer]

Two more questions:

1. The Ferrosa you used as the extender looks like it's flat across its face. I'm not familiar with that one.

That's from the 'Ferrosa II" (that's two, not eleven) range, flat profiles in all three finishes.

2. What are the samples doing on a white leather sofa?

They didn't look as good on the black one




Kept forgetting to take my camera to work, so I brought the samples home!

[Roboframer]

Had another play today and instead of making a load of finished samples I thought I'd make a few samples of the 'side' mouldings first - IOW the bit that is cut on its side to make the box.

This way you can drop another corner - any corner, on top of it and make your design options limitless.

Here's a flat gold, with a step at the front and a ridge at the back. First shot shows the profile how it was intended. Second cut and mitred on its side for a box, third with a corner dropped on.

[Roboframer]

Same side profile, different tops dropped on.

[Roboframer]

I tried a couple of scooped mouldings but didn't like the look of them for a box. Here's one - it;s LJ Florentina - blue.

But so's not to waste it, I made a box anyway and turned it into a plinth by sticking a piece of blue suedette board to a bit of MD-whotsit and sticking that in the rebate.

Then I put on this really expensive bit of, er, porcelain, from that exclusive supplier 'Minster Giftware' and stuck it in the window for thirty quid including the plinth!

(BTW do you like the West Ham frame in the background? (LJ 'Confetti')

[Roboframer]

This is a shell I did today, it's attached to black suedette board with clear polyester strips, one at the top (left hand spike) which you can make out quite easily - but this is closer than the eye could focus, and one at the bottom which you can just about make out some of, against the black on the right.

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The top spike is about 2" above the mounting board

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The deep (wide) moulding is from Simons. List price is £1:60 a foot but it was on offer a few weeks ago for 50p !!! The 'cap' moulding is a Manfredini moilding, also from Simons ref 0681/3 I think.

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Museum glass. It's a prop but if a customer wants to buy it they can have it for £200.

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Does anyone know what sort of shell this is, I've forgotten! Bought it from a shop in Looe.

[kev@frames]

its called a tourist shell

the deluxe version has "Looe" on it, in felt tip.

There are many others in the same family: Padstow, Falmouth, Newquay, Penzance, Lands End......

you can usaually find them in the cash and carry next to the stones with plastic seagulls stuck on them.

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a fine example of high quality westcountry giftware, the envy of the world.