Black marker for joining Matt Black moulding

[Bagpuss]

Before I join mitred matt black moulding, I colour the top edge with a black marker pen, just so there's no bare wood on the top side when I join the 4 sides. The black marker I use, shows a slightly mauve colouration on the mitre joint, not a real problem but I notice it. I was wondering if anyone can recommend anything other than a glorified black felt tip ?
cheers,
Adam/Bagpuss

[Trinity]

At various times I've used a black whiteboard marker - has a little ball bearing in it and a pump action to increase / decrease the flow, or black boot polish - I usually go over even a perfect joint with the latter.

[fineedge]

I do it after the joining with a little sponge and black pva paint...wipe afterwards with paper towel - just check beforehand that the matt surface is not affected by the paint

[Steve Goodall]

Hey Baggy - this is a great question!!!

My own colour shift is an orangey brown - I know what you mean & we need something that "dries" & won't "smudge" later - but stays a true black...

Also - boot polish hasn't worked for me - it stays to "fluid"...

Being a "bloke" I was too proud to ask before - but I feel I am in good company now

BTW - Max at FATG - SORRY - loads of "" again - I can't help it

[Roboframer]

You can get dark coloured wood glue but I don't know about black. When there's a problem, which is usually spotted when the join is clamped in my underpinner, I paint the mitres before joining, usually with black acrylic because it's wipes off easily if you get any on the face of the moulding.

[Jonny2morsos]

I use these:

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/EDDING ... 381,0.aspx

BTW the ink goes green on contact with water based adhesive

Also use the brown ones for dark wood mouldings. For lighter coloured woods Liberon touch up pens are good but they don't last all that long especially if you forget to replace the cap. I have also used some coloured pens for green moulding but can't remember the make but do remember they came from Wessex.

[Ricky]

I used to use Classique filler paste from lion but they don't do it anymore But I reckon this would do the same job http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/Gilder ... ,1693.aspx Just make your frame as normal then just take a soft cloth & rub into the join then clean off works a treat.

[Graysalchemy]

I use OSmo Wood wax finish Transparent. I just wipe a bit into the joint or paint it on before jointing. Wipes of with a matt /satin finish like the moulding. Also use the clear for sealing?waxing barewoods and also the black to finish stained dark barewoods.

[Bagpuss]

Thhanks for all the Top Tips, I quite like the idea of sponging black PVA paint on afterwards, if required, it would probably save me a couple of minutes faffing about with a marker pen before joining
with thanks,
Adam/Bagpuss

[ComeOnYouReds!]

I use a black Edding pen.......from Lion..... it's a water based ink so doesn't leave the purple stain on the moulding. It's easy to wipe off with a paper towel or even a bit of spit on your finger.
The black marker pens that leave the purple stain contain a chemical (can't remember off hand what it's called) and it's a swine to get off.
You can wipe it off however with a smidgen of white spirit.

[TheHoustonTexican]

I learned this from a framer's meeting here in town, not sure if you guys have this brand over there but I'm sure you could easily get them online.

http://www.reuels.com/reuels/media/bl/bl3623.jpg

Prismacolor 90% warm grey has worked best for me, although they have a few other shades that will work almost just as well depending on the shade of black moulding and what type of finish it is.

You'll never get a "purple glow" again and they blend flawlessly with your finger or paper towel.

[Moglet]

HI Bagpuss,

I gave up on using black markers because of the tinted mitre problems. Eventually I found that Liberon's Dark Walnut pen worked better. Also, I kept a piece of crepe bandage handy to wipe off the excess immediately after application of the ink on each mitre face: even a few seconds' delay can lead to tinting problems.

[Grahame Case]

the Berol Colour Fine and colour Broad (Black) pens work well for us -

http://www.internet-ink.co.uk/Other/Ber ... k-S0375350

[CanvasChris]

Good thread... Been using the Chartpak pens and really hate the purple bleed with the black. Other colours not too bad.

Will try all those suggestions.

Thanks

[Graysalchemy]

If you are getting bleed clean it off with lighter fluid should come up ok, however I find the osmo wax you dont get any problems.

[CanvasChris]

Guessing bleed is due to the absorbency of the wood. Try so hard not to go over the edge but when you pin it together ... Aargh!!

Smooth Matt is the worse...

[Ray]

Try using the small pots of 'Airfix' paints. You can get matt or gloss.

Buy a small Spitfire while you're at it (but you'll also need blue, white, red, grey!!)

[CanvasChris]

Actually... could have done with some red yesterday...