Sticking down mountboard spacers

[Bagpuss]

I have a deep rebate glossy black moulding which I need to put a deep spacer in, approx 22mm deep, I stuck some black mountboard onto some 3.5mm Foamcore board, this seems fine but can anyone tell me how best to stick the spacer into the rebate ? I obviously want something that will make a firm bond and won't lift over time but at the same time, I want to be able prise the spacer off if there was a problem when I have sealed it up ( it always happens when you least want it to does'nt it .....? )

spacer.jpg (88.5 KiB) Viewed 3912 times

[ceebdub]

For what my limited experience is worth, I used double sided tape on one I did. (I recently had cause to remove something that was double sided into a box 3 years ago.It was stick stuck really firm).

[Nigel Nobody]

Adam,
If you stick foamboard spacers so they won't move, then you will destroy them, when they need to come out.If you don't stick them, properly they may move and annoy the customer.

I usually stick them with double sided tissue tape and some spots of PVA.

[Graysalchemy]

copy dex

[prospero]

I would stick them down with double-stick. Or a few dabs of PVA. Or both.

You would have to destroy them and replace with new if they ever need to be removed, but that's not really a serious issue.

[Roboframer]

Anything that can be seen if it slips needs more than ATG/double sided tape, so that goes for the spacer to the rebate and also for the mountboard to the foamboard. Use the ATG tape just to hold things while the glue dries.

Black foam board is great if it's a black spacer you want.

[Bagpuss]

Black foam board is great if it's a black spacer you want.

Doh !! I have some black foamboard as well !
Cutting mountboard, foamcore, sticking together and sticking to rebate took flippin ages ... I used some short lengths of double sided sticky with glue inbetween, seems to do the trick.

Thanks everyone,
Adam/Bagpuss

[Roboframer]

Cutting mountboard, foamcore, sticking together and sticking to rebate took flippin ages

It's faster if you bond the mount board to the foam board and then cut them together to make the spacers. I test the length and depth first with offcuts of stuff like artbak.

[Graysalchemy]

I did say copydex before which is fine for card or Foam core. However on reading the post properly I would say I always use Lion Glass Spacers ie L1341. They can be mitred with a morso and glued in using Gripfil adhesive. It goes of quick and is solid as a rock. If you cut the spacers correctly they don't need much holding in place as they will be a snug fit . They now also do these spacers in paper wrap and in plastic.



AG

[Roboframer]

There's a lot of things you can buy, but if foam board will do the trick the chances are it's free because it's those skinny offcuts that eventually, if not immediately, get tossed, same applies to mountboard liners.

[A Few More Words]

I must agrre with all points above , but where possible now we avoid using foamcore / mountboard for this application - instead we stock a selection of 5 mm thickness wood slips of various depths in black / cream etc (as well as some raw wood ones that we can color match when required) - these are absolutly great , save a load of time and guarantee a perfect corner (no gap / white showing etc) - we measure up, then mitre cut the slip with the morso and then underpin to form an "inner frame spacer" - very quick and guaranteed perfect results. Ok there is a cost involved as its extra material input but this is more than offset by the time saved and the guaranteed result. Also no issue to easily disassemble and reassemble the frame sandwich
We use this method on a daily basis to great effect.

[TONY.W]

Why don't you use the paper wrapped wooden spacer.You can cut it on the Morso and then underpin it.
That way should you have to remove it from the frame it will just lift out.To do a frame the size that you are doing takes minutes.You can attach the mount board and backing board to the rim of the spacer and it will just fit snuggly into the frame.
You can then fix to the frame by using a few bendy tabs down each side and firing a staple across the flex tab then tape it up.

[Bagpuss]

Thanks for everyone's thoughts on this, there clearly is more than one way to "skin a cat" isn't there ?
I may consider the wooden spacers, I like the idea of a rigid spacer to fix within the frame, especially on the larger frames. Probably best if I see what works best for me.
Thanks again,
Adam/Bagpuss

[absolute framing]

Hi.

I use double sided embroidery tape to fit foam slips.