The Framers Forum

Sadly that's what I thought - just hoping someone out there knows better . . . .

Has anyone had experience of a paper conservator who can deal with this? (My normal one doesn't).The photograph is slightly faded, and got some ripples from being badly mounted (strip of masking tape all along top edge), but the real issue is a small area (approx 8mm diameter) in the middle where ...

How big is the fabric, does it need to be stretched taut, and will it then be going into a frame?

Agree with Prospero, I would use 2mm

As for moulding, I would say no to the customer, and if they want the 20mm face, go for something 40mm deep. Even then, it might need a subframe unless it is in Oak or similar.

Let me re-wind here. What the customer wants may well be entirely possible, in fact ...

To be fair Justin, I think Rob got a whole bundle of old mouldings from a retiring framer when he bought his equipment. As these are for practise, not for customers, I suspect these moulding choices are the best that can be done from what he has in stock

They're looking good Rob!

I agree with Justin's comments above - keep the undermount to 4 or 5mm.

On something that has loads of colour, or 'extreme' colours think about a really understated presentation that allows the image to do its thing!

Hi Rob

Your framing is definitely moving in the right direction.

Canvas
I would aim for the 'air gap' to be approx 5mm yours looks a bit wider than that.
Mitres could be better - use a strap clamp
Choice of frame looks perfect.

Dog Tax
This looks like it is well executed - I think the moulding ...

If you want to control your hours and lifestyle, I would not go down the route of a High St outlet. Once people see a 'shopfront' they expect to be able to visit when they like. (We used to get complaints from customers that had found us closed on a Sunday!) So you will be paying more money for an ...

To me, the hooking seems to occur when I insert the blade without using the guides (on the windows after the first) meaning I'm slightly less sure, and not holding the top guide down, and so perhaps there's less force when breaking the mount?


As your machine is new, I would guess this ...

Sounds as though you need to tighten the top blades so they can't move. Your machine was cutting fine when I was there for training, and it doesn't sound as though you have moved the bottom blades since then, although I know you have taken the top blades off.

So check there's nothing behind the top ...

If it is 'stiff' does it need to be stretched at all. Can you not just frame it as it is?

PM d you

I would avoid even giving advice on something like this to a customer. I certainly would not be glueing it onto a board for them.

My advice would be to put it in a frame. If they don't want to pay to do that I would leave them to it. Then when it goes wrong it's not your problem!

I would echo Justin.

That Morso is filthy! I would spend a couple of hours cleaning that down, particularly the grooves that the rebate supports run in, and the rebate supports themselves.

I would then bite the bullet and buy a new set of blades. Those look near to the end of their life.

Velcro?

I have some of the plastic cartridges left, but they are getting a bit ragged, so I have also bought a couple of the AA+ ones from Centrado. Yes they are expensive, but much more convenient, easy to change from HW to SW wedges, and they work well. They are also tax deductable!

Hi Rob

Hope you are well. Not certain what is going on here, but my thoughts would be to check the following.

1) Is the blade depth set correctly? It should only just mark the slipmat as you cut. If it is set too deep it may be flexing.
2) Are you using a new(ish) piece of board as an slipmat? If ...

I had a similar enquiry a couple of years ago. After much investigation I discovered that the frame she had seen was a mass produced photo frame.

I did actually find a solution by using my laser cutter to etch a Celtic knot pattern in MDF, which I then ‘inlaid’ into a wooden frame, and then ...

Now sold

Interesting Justin

I use them on every single use - ensures that the moulding is in exactly the right position