The Framers Forum

If it's a small print I cut slits in the bottom mount and t hinge as normal.
If it's a larger print or I think it might be more inclined to move I'll use the hedgehog method.

Your website doesn't work

It sounds as though the mechanism that pushes the wedges forward isn't doing it well enough or in time so it is missing out the second wedge.
If you wait a bit longer in between wedges does that work?
What about if you manually push them forward after the first wedge?
My underpinner spring that ...

If it's crushing frames the force from above is higher than the force from below.
Does it do it to flat moulding too?
Does it do it to different wood types?
Are you sure your wedges are in the correct way round so the blade is facing upwards?
I have a pneumatic one so I can control the pressure so ...

Screenshot_20250531-165344.png

Here's an extreme example of a float mount used to show off the edges of the child's artwork.

I did another one that has frayed edges and even a hole in the middle but used a bright turquoise mount to highlight the imperfections.

For this one I would do the same ...

Float mount it on a bright and colourful mount to show off the imperfections.

Is it maybe the Palatino range from Centrado?

It's difficult to tell.

Sometimes there can be a slight difference in moulding height from one end of the length to the other, which can cause this issue. If this happens I normally put a slip of card underneath when joining so the top is flush and the bottom is out slightly.
Another possibility is a length is warped ...

If you are often getting rough glass cuts you need to fix that.
If there is a bulge or a dip in the glass as in the last pic it will be a weak point so if the frame is knocked and it stresses the glass at that point it will break.
Gluing fillets in is fine although if you do use glue do it lightly ...

I pay around £250 a year.

That doesn't look like it's being used correctly. I think that's just a corner piece that should have small screws for bracing against the frame.
Search for aluminium frame hardware. Lion does some.

Ask the customer how they are planning to hang them.
If I'm doing a few the same I always make sure the wire is the exact same height from the top.

It's been discussed a few times on here so if you use the search function you'll be able to read some of the threads.
I normally ask the customer if the room they will hang in gets steamy and if so I offer plastic glass.

It looks as though it's just a normal frame with mountboard and then the canvas and inner frame on top of the mountboard.
You could just use the fillet and screw it in place from behind the mountboard. Another option would be a small l-shaped moulding, or even a normal moulding on its side or upside ...

It's not showing up on the website at all. Do you have a photo?

I started off framing alongside a couple of other jobs doing roughly 8 hours weekly initially, and then up to around 20 hours weekly after a few years.
For the last 5 or 6 years I have been full time framing.
I operate an appointment system although I do often get people just turning up but if ...

I don't have an issue with any of the frame designs.
I would possibly have a different mount colour on the dog one to give more of a contrast, or add a bit of colour with a double mount, but I definitely wouldn't add a vgroove as it's already quite busy.
For the Kappa one I would have possibly made ...

The point of an underpinner is to hold the two pieces of wood together while the glue is drying without the need for clamps or nails in the side where the holes can be seen.
The only time I clamp is on taller mouldings that struggle with stacked wedges.
Underpinning after the glue has dried will ...

Yes it will be fine but will probably get quite grubby.