The Framers Forum

Looks quite simple but had to incorporate silver "medal" (actually had the ashes of the person who was memorialised in there), shirt, poster, season pass card and match programme obituary.

It won't fire if the rebate clamp isn't firmly gripping the moulding.

Soft wood wedges are harder to stack than hardwood wedges, although you will get better results if your under pinner clamps the corner together well and better still with a pneumatic pinner as you get less overall movement by not having to push on a pedal.

Soft and hard wood wedges are made of the ...

From memory, I made a cut at the bottom of the board the turned it over so the cut is then at the top, loosened the bolts and adjusted the screw untill the blade lined up with the cut, make sure that the board is up against the stop for both the cut and then lining it up after turning over.
My ...

Did you loosen the locking nut on the base of the plastic wing nut?

I have adjusted our older 5000 model but can not remember off the top of my head how I did it, if I remember I'll have a look on Monday.

They work with most guns except for the fletcher, if I remember rightly.

Yes, but it's much better on a machine designed for the task, like the Valiani Optima with a vacuum bed.
It comes with a camera to detect crop marks and cut around them and a special etc etc.

I have been using a CMC for so long I can't remember how we did it before we had one.
Hope this helps!

I see that the right hand hinge is slightly higher than the left, that is still a tight hinge, it needs to be considerably longer, I also use narrower strips to allow free movement.
We also often use foam board between the under mount and the backing board, this helps with rigidity and also ...

Both of your hinges appear to be tight to the picture and quite wide, the point of T hinges is so the picture can expand and contract freely.
One hinge is supposed to be tight to the image as an anchor and the other is supposed to be loose to allow movement.

Nice job!

The little extra at the top is simply because the farmer hasn't taken into account the extra couple of mm for expansion and contraction, they have cut it the same as the sides and that couple of mm where it has dropped really stands out, the whole thing is poor as a combination, hand made or not.

I ...

This real does not look "just right" to me either, I see a very fine etching in a very very heavy black frame and off putting thick gold slip and a badly cut mount, nothing about this suits the picture in the slightest.

I do have an original manual for that machine, what is it you are having trouble with?

I have glues rare earth magnets to my machines, the tools live on the magnets.

Well I was going to post pictures of the stacked mouldings and support for the cove box, but I am having problems.

Epoxy resin rare earth magnets to your machines, for a handy place to keep the spanners you use on that machine!

I have a set of these on my Morso. I've never seen them on anyone else's machine or even heard mention of them
on my travels. I fitted them myself and are a gen Morso accessory. I had to drill the block to fit them but I think
later machines had pre-drilled holes. They keep the rebate supports at ...