The Framers Forum

I've been framing since 2016. I'd been a professional gardener for many years and was sick of the repetitive injuries, rain, mud and cold. My local framer was retiring and my wife is an artist (so was fully supportive with the career move). I studied art and design and then advertising and editorial...

Seconded Mike, it was great to chat face to face. We got some great tips on some current projects we were struggling with and it was really useful chatting with Alec about stacking mouldings and using magnets for double sided frames. All in all a great weekend of networking and socialising. Thanks t...

Mark, I think you'll find that everything is better with a bit of lube...

"No, I don't usually need to use cutting fluid..."
Mark, for God's sake take a breath man! That question was obviously directed at the poster of the thread.
Put your coffee down and take a chill pill, it's not all about you!!

Are you using a drop of glass cutting fluid on the wheel before you cut?

Have you tried www.tgsrepairs.co.uk?

Yes. I think cassese recommend 30mm max distance between the door. Closer will give more pressure.

Morso advise not to lubricate this channel but to keep clean with lighter fluid. I have used a dry film lubricant in the past, it improves it for a while. Depends on the wood too, some wood the rebates slide with, some not.

"If the image is not directly touching and completely in contact with the acrylic across the entire surface, it will appear very frosted and distorted – even if the gap is only a few millimetres." So no good for mounts or spacers.

By the looks of it you could adjust your Morso left fence the tiniest bit towards you too (cat's whisker), assuming that you're cutting on a Morso.

Make sure that you have the clamp the recommended height above the moulding, up to 30mm usually. If it's too high to start with you won't get the clamping pressure. I would only use 2 wedges. Place the inner wedge as close to the inside as you can 2-3mm from the inside and bring the back wedge close...

Hey Noobie,
Welcome to NYA Framer's Forum!
Jokes aside, welcome mate, we're all here to share and learn.
It may seem that there are only a few of us here, but there are some real experts who will jump in when required!
Enjoy.

Anyone have an offcut of Larson 354302 they could send me?
2metres would be ideal but 1.5m would do it.
Please PM me if you can help.
TIA

Yes looks like it could do with a mm or so adjustment IMO.
Your placement looks good too, looks like a great join to me.
I would put the inside wedge a fraction closer to the inside personally.
Have you experimented putting the back wedge in first then the inside? I prefer that way.

If the back of the moulding is opening it can be a whole host of reasons. First is to try moving the wedge nearest the back/outside further forward. Having it too far to the back will definitely do this. You are using hardwood wedges? Hardwood can be tricky on an underpinner. Do you have a band clam...

If you're looking for second hand, I can highly recommend a Gunnar F1 Hybrid. It's been a game changer for us. Sarah at Gunnar UK has been incredible, helping us find a machine, getting us started and giving further training. It does take up space but we managed to fit some mount storage underneath ...

The manual says that if the hammer is set too high it will do exactly what you say it is doing. Sounds like you need to follow the instructions to lower the hammer slightly. The hammer is "a" in your image. If you remove all of the wedges from the machine and press the foot pedal fully you will see ...

Set up an LLP, but I really think you're asking the wrong people. I usually ask an accountant these sort of things rather than picture framers...

A wall mounted panel cutter like a Keencut or a Fletcher. Glass, mountboard, mdf etc etc etc very useful bit of kit.