The Framers Forum

Thanks for responses. Good advice as usual - when you work mainly on your own there often isn't anyone in the 'shop to turn to.
Interesting subject this and I'm going to look into it. In the meantime I've spoken with the customer and we've agreed to a clean-up and reframe. I really feel that she ...

Good morning all, Spring is (nearly) here so time to come out hibernation...boy, have we been busy down the burrow while it's been a cold and wet Winter.
A couple of works have come my way to reframe. They are original pencil drawings on (aged) cartridge that have some dreaded foxing spots ...

Most V nail strips have a colour coded glue strip - the 'top' side of the strip. My Cassese V-nails are red for hardwood and grey for softwood. I have to confess to using hardwood V-nails almost all the time if the moulding timber is close grained. If its not I'll use softwood V-nails. It's all to ...

Like Prospero, I like the manual (or is that 'pedial'?) feel of my Inglet. You can actually feel the v-nail going into the timber.
Btw most of the mouldings made/imported into Australia aren't as rock hard as oak, so the choice of say, a 15mm v-nail in a 30mm deep moulding is based on that ...

OK, I'll be the first one to blink.
On a 25mm deep moulding I'd use one 15mm v-nail placed about 8mm from the front and about the same in from the outside. Plus LOTS of glue 'cos it's the glue that holds it all together, right?
Double stacking (say, two 10mm v-nails) isn't really necessary below ...

Wedges? Que?
Oh, you mean V-nails, yes?

Just a thought...but is everything clear of old dried glue? I use old mat cutter blades to make sure the base plate and angle arm on my Inglet 1800 is super cleaned up (scraped) - any debris in the 'zone' can muck up a good join.
BTW I had a (new) Italian V nailer that had a WARPED base plate which ...

Hello to one and all.
I'd just like to take this opportunity to say a big "thank you" for the brilliant advice given by some of you over the past year. It was all very much appreciated, I can tell you.
I don't post that much but I do read them as much as I can and apart from the fact that I think ...

Bill, you never cease to amaze me with your ingenuity.

Talking of bars, how 'bout this one.
A battery and two jumper leads walked into a bar.
The barman says, "OK, I'll serve you - but don't start anything."

It's been rolled up for far too long. It's quite "woody", has got a few loose "threads" and I'm wondering how on earth would be the best way to mount it...my first thought was tapestry tape on the periphery as we want to expose the woven edges. I'd be a bit nervous about using a wet adhesive, yes ...

Kev, I got my full range of samples delivered just last week - they're still shrink wrapped.
Dunno where on earth I'm going to put them...

Hey Pat, I had an idea for mounting Fletch at an adjustable angle. With the advent of CAD in drawing offices, there are loads of those old style drawing tables around. They're adjustable for height as well as angle. Hmmm, might investigate...

Bill, thanks for the hint. The unforgiving nature of self adhesive was holding me off 'cos once it's down - it's down.
I also want to retain the hand-made nature of the paper, which is quite thin, so the paste idea is the way I'll go, so thanks. Markie

Whoops...sorry, lovely Irish ladies

[quote="Roboframer"]You going to depend on half a mil of cardboard to support that?

John, I don't know if this is what Bill had in mind but I see the box thing as an insert into the premade shadow box.
Doing it this way should mean there are no structural issues.
Maybe this will also address your ...

Hi Aine, We're having a lovely but dry Autumn here. This thread is great.
I see that a lot of you folk have your Fletcher type mat cutters mounted up right. Is that to save space?

Bill - that's a great idea. I used to make up dummy packaging designs this way and had completely forgotten about the method. Partially cutting the back is indeed the right way to go. To add to your method in order to make a neat fold you can use the ( blunt ) end of your scalpel handle to score the ...

It never ceases to amaze me in this forum, but when I'm having a mental battle royal over a job someone else posts a similar problem.
Got a black on white pen & ink of two cats on hand made thin tissue-like hand-made paper. I want to show the edges and mount it 3mm above the Artcare. I actually ...

fionnuala wrote:thats v interesting. thanks.

btw what width of foam core do u use? 5mm? or 3mm?

Hi fionnuala, I guess that would depend on the width of the rebate. 3mm should be fine if want to reduce the chances of 'show'. Depends also on how 'tight' you like your glass to be in the frame. Bfn

I recently came across a supply of balsa wood (from my model making days) which cuts into quite fine strips with a new scalpel blade in. Gonna try this out on a job that came in just this afternoon. (Btw, did you know that balsa is a hardwood? Well it is.)