The Framers Forum

Tapered Box Frame?? I had no clue until I watched Dave Woolass's video. All becomes clear. These were more commonly known as Cove Boxes on the Forum many years ago. This sites administrator John Mcafee actually created a little program called 'Cove Mount Designer' which is still available for downl...

If you use A333 Obeche from Rose and Hollis, it is designed to allow for extension pieces such as A335, A337 and A339 (all in obeche) to be fitted into the rear of it. They extend the rebate in a variety of size depths, which should give you the clearance you need. Fill and sand the gap once it is ...

I've just realised this may be the "something between the two" option that you mention.....

Thanks so much Prospero. I am now wondering if I could do a frame within a frame, creating the max height with spacers etc. and then using a double mount to hide all the internal fixings..... The customer is happy for me to flatten the hat as much as possible so we can get the overall height down to...

Thanks for this. I need to create a depth of 115mm....so have seen posts about stacking frames on top of each other? I don't have a bandsaw though which I imagine would be needed to remove the rebate from the lower frames. And I would think there would be "joins" along the edges of the fra...

Great idea to paint it - think I may do this

Hi, I am new to object framing and have a cap to frame. I found the tapered box method by Dave Woolass online and have followed the instructions. It has turned out well, but when viewed from the side there is 100mm or so of board visible behind the frame. Is that acceptable? The youtube film I follo...

Thanks all, so many helpful suggestions. I will get practising!

Hi, can anyone offer tips on how to add a line by hand (with a debossing tool) around a mount aperture? Do you mark it out first? I'm thinking there must be a clever trick. I have a Keencut Laser 1200 - and have tried using the mat guide as my ruler so that the debossed line follows the exact same p...