The Framers Forum

Filled in for you!

My process is 1) select the best length(s) I have for the job 2) make the frame 3) sand with 180 grit 4) adjust colour if necessary* 5) sand 320 grit 6) shellac (1 coat for matt, 2 or 3 for gloss) 7) Liberon wax (1st coat rub off again almost immediately, 2nd coat leave overnight then buff) *Colour...

I use ASC packaging. They have a box builder so you can choose a box style and exact dimensions. You do have to order 25 boxes, but that’s better than most for bespoke boxes. Their website is www.ascdirect.co.uk

I know I'm late to the party on this discussion but I also have this problem. Drives me nuts. I've got quite a bit of 'oak' stock that looks just like the ash version of the same moulding, in tone at least. :head: When I've brought it up, different suppliers blame either the fact no one was plantin...

Apologies for not responding but for some reason I periodically can’t log in for weeks and then it magically starts working again. I switched my oak to Lion and it’s so much better. I hadn’t noticed but they actually state on their website that their oak is American white oak.

I bag most of my mounted prints. I use cello bags from https://www.fulcrumfilms.co.uk/. They do most sizes you would ever want… except 18” x 18” (so i buy the 20” and fold 2” over and tape it. I use 2400 micron mount board and a 1400 undermount and they fit fine.

I buy from Rose & Hollis and Centrado for oak. I have found both to be good quality, although the colour and grain pattern does change from length to length. As a matter of course I sand, shellac and wax oak, and often stain it too, in order to get a good finish. But this is part of the job if ...

Nolan, I notice that you are not clarifying the type of oak that you are ordering. Are you ordering your moulding by asking for "oak" or "white oak"? There are 2 major variants: white oak and red oak. They are different species. If you have not have had a chat with your supplier...

I've never had a bad batch of oak from Rose and Hollis yet, of course you do get variations, but all natural wood is like that. I like to match the pieces of oak within a single frame and consequently buy all my natural wood mouldings in batches, so I can match bits from different lengths. I get my...

Tudor Rose wrote: ↑Tue 19 Dec, 2023 12:45 pm We'd recommend Rose & Hollis.

https://www.roseandhollis.co.uk/

We get most of our oak from them.

Thanks Jo, Is their oak noticeably better? I wondered if all oak used for mouldings had maybe gone this way now

Hi, I'm wondering where everyone gets their solid oak mouldings from. I'm finding more and more that a large portion of the oak I get just isn't usable. I get all my oak from either Centrado or Larson (usually the 20mm wide by 33mm deep or the 33mm wide by 20mm deep) but it's either very pink, red, ...

Justintime wrote: ↑Thu 16 Feb, 2023 12:14 pm I bought this set of electronics spacers to try, after hearing about them on another group. Sadly their internal diameter was too small for my screws but I like the idea.20230216_120854.jpg

That's exactly what I was thinking of!

I don't do many floaters (hate them) but scraps of foamcore are good for this. I also use them as temporary spacers on the sides to hold the canvas in alignment. Screw though (not too tight and slightly enlarged holes) from the back and the remove the side spacers. :wink: I do already use them on t...

Spacers are the obvious answer. But if that seems a bit fiddly or you have a super fussy customer, you could make a 'drop-in' frame with one of the F series filets from R&H. They come in a variety of thicknesses and coupled with some bits of board behind will give you lots of flexibility. That’...

JKX wrote: ↑Tue 14 Feb, 2023 2:47 pm I actually wouldn’t have a problem with the canvas set back a bit anyway.

Me neither. I actually prefer it set back a little, but artists seem to always want it perfectly flush with the front of the frame.

Fruitini wrote: ↑Tue 14 Feb, 2023 2:27 pm Couldn't you glue/pin a discreet little spacer/batten to the base of your tray frame to make up the difference and screw through both from the back?

I've used spacers before. Although it wasn't visible, it felt like a messy solution to me - but that's probably just me!

I'm not sure if I'm missing something glaringly obvious here, but I've come across this problem a few times in the short period that I've been framing canvases. if the stretcher bars aren't as deep as the tray frame, so it needs raising up to align with the front of the frame, but also the stretcher...

I've looked at your website. Congratulations. It's refreshing to see an artist actually making a living from his own work. Your landscapes are my personal favourites - "St Mary's Church - Masham" is spectacular. 'Good to hear from you and my advice - stick to the simple plain wood mouldin...

Is that your own work? Full respect! And it looks great in that frame. I like the way you have mounted it. Can anyone do something about the way photos are being posted side-ways? Many thanks. It is my work. I’m predominantly an artist but having framed my own work for a while (and mounted all my o...

If that was the case, I would attach it to the fall-out board as lightly as necessary, glue a smaller sized piece of 5mm foam board to the underside and have the artwork displayed as floating on a platform. I had it floating on a platform anyway. I’ve redone some of the hinges and it seems flat now...