The Framers Forum

I used to use an Framers Corner foot operated underpinner where I used a hard rubber pad between the round metal disc and the moulding and didn't have any problems.
If you wanted another underpinner you can have my old one free of charge, just have to collect from Hull

I have spoken to Sarah recently and she was very helpful, as Justintime has posted in the past £5k could well buy you an F1 Hybrid but with the old control unit which if it goes faulty is not repairable, a new control unit is £4k - 5k, or you could order a refurbished unit from Sarah with 2 year ...

This made me smile, new mount for a job - the green one I cut underneath, the original ran out 10mm over 550mm, the sides were fine, the customer hadn't noticed for the 20 years on her wall!

I will give you a ring, it will be after the weekend - some deadline jobs I need to press on with

Training - possibly!
Swimming - the cold water shock would probably finish me off!!

My first suggestion would be surface mount using hedgehog method on something like Wessex WCM666 dark blue mountboard, I like showing the edges - its part of the story

They did, and I would have bought it instantly but the 10+ hour round trip (on a good day) put me off

If you are mounting with top and bottom hinged together, why not use standard Tawny board - up to now I have found that very flat?

I use Tawny board and recently I ordered some conservation Tawny board and every sheet bowed the wrong way, so I ordered some Corri-Cor conservation and though generally it bows the right way, towards the edge it curves the opposite way - not useful.

Best is down to your situation; I used to use BBEst - I liked the once only payment of approx £120, I disliked updating prices manually and no customer records, there is a possibility to swap to Estlite but (I think) that's about £450 and more comprehensive - I didn't try that.
I swapped to FramR ...

I give mine away to a place called Scrapstore which is a local arts and craft charity shop

You mentioned using a Minigraff underpinner, I'm not sure if the clamping is the same as my Alfamacchine but originally I used to almost exclusively use the middle clear pad, only using black harder pad for hardwoods, recently I use the black a lot more because for me it's better for the situation ...

When you say flush do you mean tight mitres?
If so a few things, you mentioned new blades, are these brand new never been used Morso blades or another set you have?
If brand new I would suggest that with a (big as possible) straight edge set up the right hand fence to be perfectly in line with the ...

Hi, I will buy the canvas pliers please, I have sent you a PM

Hi, do you have information as to the machines age?
Does it come with any consumables?

Hi, not yet. I'm away until tomorrow but if you want to PM me some info? Best regards Nick

Along with the sage advice we are picture framers not magicians, is the advice we frame what we are given. I recently was asked to frame an old creased and crumpled film poster, the result was a framed creased and crumpled film poster. The customer was super happy as we had a conversation at the ...

Interesting that it appears to have butt joints not mitres, that points towards solid wood, a job for a skilled cabinet maker.
I have a mantra; do the things you do, don't do the things you don't do.
This for me would definitely fall in the don't do category

IMO you are underpinning too close to the outside edge, don't add the third outside wedge. On 3 of your 4 corner pictures you can see the bulge caused by the outside wedge pushing the wood outwards. If clamping do it tight and I use 8 small pieces of mountboard to protect the frame - then leave ...

Hi, that looks like ayous/obeche, standard SW wedges are fine. If they are inserting next to each other then moulding must moving during underpinning. What machine are you using?
I use a lot of 15mm wedges - it often avoids having to stack, sometimes when stacking they start to wander off and appear ...