The Framers Forum

Firstly, you don't need a window mount, float mounted work generally looks better without one; keep the same amount of space around the work but use rebate spacers.

Floated work does not always lie perfectly flat, which can all be part of the look, but even the smallest turned up corner will ...

For a small area, a mount slip like this is good.
Search L juhl!s website for “mountslip”. - there’s loads, gold, silver, ornate, coloured, plain wood.

https://larsonjuhl.co.uk/mouldings/lars ... -220406004


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Drop this member a PM

https://www.theframersforum.com/memberl ... ile&u=6108


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Maybe but it’s useful info anyway - read the full version if you like.


https://chcollins.com/100Billion/2017/1 ... -pictures/


Two hooks is a good idea anyway, as a back up, to spread the load and to prevent constant readjustment on the wall.


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I think that may have got plenty of feedback had it been a new thread.

With old long running threads like this it’s easy to miss things as you don’t automatically go to the first new post as you do in some forums.

I knew I’d seen this though and had seen replies so I was a bit confused - it was ...

I like white frame backs, with foam board and white gummed tape, or correx and lineco aluminium sealing tape.

I also like the US Dustcover method, this one uses thin black card, but any colour you like could be used.

(Your cord is too tight!)

Use larger tags!


You’ll need another tag gun for those but don’t use a framing supplier, just google “Avery tagging gun”

You only need micro tags where they are visible.

I used a 3mm foam board insert as any micro tags I may need in the front of the shirt could just about cope with that and ...

Thanks. How much space would you leave around the print?



At least 75mm


I’d also bottom weight it to compensate for the wider top border.

Colour is personal choice of course, but I’d ensure that choice is an informed one by showing options
I think contrast is good and a dark mounting ...

To float mount something means to show the whole thing, raised above the mounting surface or not.

I’d mount it to navy blue mount board, and put much more space around it than you’re showing.

Link

https://theframeblog.com/2025/05/09/nat ... ych-frame/

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Facebook is infested with scammers.

I adopt a principle across the board, but especially on Facebook of “guilty until proven innocent”!

Profiles are scrutinised; any little niggling doubt and they’re blocked.

Ive bought and sold successfully but never ever by payment on line in any form unless it ...

The top one is a bit “Rovers Return” with its mahogany coloured frame. The mount width is too close to the frame width and you’ve also demonstrated one of many reasons I dislike these shadow mounts - ie shadows!

You can expect shadows on bevels but you’ve created extra ones on the artwork itself ...

Does it mean the frame is joined going away from you instead of towards you?

That’s how I did it, so my workbench with underpinner in one corner, became a huge frame support - and I never ended up standing inside a frame!

So it would mean, with a manual underpinner, you’d be pulling the corners ...

Justintime wrote: Thu 08 May, 2025 2:25 pm
I have just done a similar job with a large vellum painting that refused to flatten after many weeks under weight. Here it is..

Isn’t that papyrus?

You can tell by the corner cut outs (to avoid folding) and staple holes that it’s come off a frame. You could staple it on to another but that could be tricky unless you line it.

If that’s an option, as that method uses adhesive, I’d use the same adhesive to bond it to a mounting board and put a ...

I don’t know that machine, but on the underpinners I had changing the hammer - or the “blade” on the cassesse, was routine and simple, once I knew how of course. I always had at least one spare.

It’s something that’s good to learn as part of routine maintenance.

Maybe someone here has one who can ...

If when you put two lengths on your underpinner, whether it has rebate clamps, or if you have to push them together yourself, does it look OK? If so but it looks like that after pinning, your underpinner hammer may be chipped, so it’s not making full contact with the V nail
It looks like there’s a ...

You don’t have to make a sink mount as such. you just have to make your mounting board flush, and all you need do is put the mounted print face down and tape too-wide strips around it. Then you can stick your mount to that and trim off the excess from the strips. No need to waste self adhesive board ...

Sink mount it with strips of board the same thickness as what it’s mounted to.

Then put whatever type of mount you like on it but it beats me why anyone would want to space a mount away from the image!

They’re already mounted, so you already have the undermount they’re mounted to - I hope. So just now add whatever frame backing you’d normally use and factor it in along with the undermount, Are you using an undermount though, if so why isn’t that enough? If not, use that!


If you’re fixing the ...