The Framers Forum

The top one is a bit “Rovers Return” with its mahogany coloured frame. The mount width is too close to the frame width and you’ve also demonstrated one of many reasons I dislike these shadow mounts - ie shadows!

You can expect shadows on bevels but you’ve created extra ones on the artwork itself ...

Does it mean the frame is joined going away from you instead of towards you?

That’s how I did it, so my workbench with underpinner in one corner, became a huge frame support - and I never ended up standing inside a frame!

So it would mean, with a manual underpinner, you’d be pulling the corners ...

Justintime wrote: Thu 08 May, 2025 2:25 pm
I have just done a similar job with a large vellum painting that refused to flatten after many weeks under weight. Here it is..

Isn’t that papyrus?

You can tell by the corner cut outs (to avoid folding) and staple holes that it’s come off a frame. You could staple it on to another but that could be tricky unless you line it.

If that’s an option, as that method uses adhesive, I’d use the same adhesive to bond it to a mounting board and put a ...

I don’t know that machine, but on the underpinners I had changing the hammer - or the “blade” on the cassesse, was routine and simple, once I knew how of course. I always had at least one spare.

It’s something that’s good to learn as part of routine maintenance.

Maybe someone here has one who can ...

If when you put two lengths on your underpinner, whether it has rebate clamps, or if you have to push them together yourself, does it look OK? If so but it looks like that after pinning, your underpinner hammer may be chipped, so it’s not making full contact with the V nail
It looks like there’s a ...

You don’t have to make a sink mount as such. you just have to make your mounting board flush, and all you need do is put the mounted print face down and tape too-wide strips around it. Then you can stick your mount to that and trim off the excess from the strips. No need to waste self adhesive board ...

Sink mount it with strips of board the same thickness as what it’s mounted to.

Then put whatever type of mount you like on it but it beats me why anyone would want to space a mount away from the image!

They’re already mounted, so you already have the undermount they’re mounted to - I hope. So just now add whatever frame backing you’d normally use and factor it in along with the undermount, Are you using an undermount though, if so why isn’t that enough? If not, use that!


If you’re fixing the ...

I do like the look of floated artwork set well back from the glass using the maximum of a deep rebate frame, I think it looks better than just enough to keep it off the glass in a not so deep rebate frame. It’s the setting back of a mount under the glass I’m not so keen on - nor remember seeing ...

How widely used is it anyway. - a spacer under the glass as well as a mount, or mounts, on two-dimensional art?

I never did it once. It never would have entered my head and if I’d seen it - any maybe I did - I’d have dismissed it. If someone asks for it that’s fine, and it’s fine if everyone else ...

Get it in, you won’t get the work otherwise, see what it smells like, surely not that bad after just a couple of hours wear, but if there is any lingering pong, hang it outside, out of the sun for a day or two and re-sniff.

Another idea - we have an air freshener in our front porch, one if those ...

I thought you must have cropped the image but that’s how these frames are.

https://gagosian.com/exhibitions/2016/taryn-simon-paperwork-and-the-will-of-capital-new-york/

“Something similar” could be do-able for some, a thin frame as normal with a panel framed in the same moulding on three sides on ...

The blades for my CMC are now £1:14 each, inc VAT!

… it isn't a real shadow gap in the true sense, more just use of fillets to set the image back a little and use the depth of the moulding. Is this a done thing? Or is it just done where the fillets sit behind the mat board?



Neither really, the first is just unnecessary and the second you ...

They aren’t fixed with a screw in a hole! They’re held in with pressure, you couldn’t adjust depth of cut otherwise.

I can’t find the ones I used, maybe they’re discontinued - you could try these unbranded ones.

https://www.fruugo.co.uk/100-pcs-replacement-mat-blades-stainless-steel-mat-cutter ...

The cost per blade, especially when divided in to the amount of mounts it would cut, is negligible really, however, I never used them, Lion used to sell alternatives made by Persona, single and double edge, far cheaper and just as good, IMO.

I don’t think they do now. but google them.

You’re right I just tried one of the part Nos. no good, shame.

Maybe it’s just a simple swap of the cutter bar and head assembly, that’s how it reads. Keencut would sell you one, could be worth a call.

You can convert an old ultimat or ultimat gold to the futura with an upgrade kit from Lion (and maybe other suppliers) scroll down to the bottom of page here for Lion part Nos.

https://www.lionpic.co.uk/content/infostore/37846b7a-7af5-4f1b-88ec-40d9fce47caa/PUB068%20Keencut%20Ultimat%20Futura.pdf ...