The Framers Forum

I have see similar frames in books described as 'Aschkar' frames, with corners formed the same way. But that
might refer to a a specific design.

If you look at my diagram up there^ you'll see that there is a bit of 'jiggle room' for the paper. The outer edge of the slip is raised slightly to lift the slip so the edge of the paper is unrestricted. I typically use Linen tape, but whatever you use it should be a tad thicker than the paper. A 30...

The whole thing revolves around the image.

Like a lot of things, it's comes under the heading of "It Depends.....".

..... Later.

I tried the Imnes wedges and they seemed to work fine. 7mm ones anyway.

I like to use a wide, flat moulding on posters and contrive a wide rebate either by routing the rebate to about 30mm or adding a slip. My thinking is that posters are usually on a wall so visually don't benefit visually from a mount. This way also saves a lot of weight re. the glass area and a wide ...

Yeas it's a bit of a PITA to reload cartridges and I usually snap off the little ratchet bits. If you're careful you can put them in the machine without the nails coming out the end. Once you get them loaded they work fine. Trouble is, the Uni wedges I use are made by Cassese too. I have a box of Im...

If you are trimming the ends then practically any cheapo mitre saw will do the job.

You don't really need a clamping system. Just watch where you put your fingers.

Hi and Welcome Old School. :D I sometimes re-use Far East import frames by giving them a light sanding and then coating them with shellac. This makes a base that water-based paints will stick to. I mostly refinish them with an Ivory type finish with a few powder-gilded highlights which is then muted...

A little story... A lady once brought me an ally wrapped frame to ask if I could 'touch it up' a bit. It was very tatty and scuffed. While I was explaining that this type of moulding was basically untouchupable I had a thought. I took it into the workshop an quickly peeled the protective plastic off...

Can't you make one Keith? It only takes a day or two when the sun shines.

I would agree about taking adhesive out of the equation.

But this type of self-adhesive tape needs to be burnished firmly to maximise the grip. Just pressing it on and rubbing
it with a finger does not do it.

Most Poly moulding, it has to be said, is used on frames that are at the bottom end of the market. Price is the issue. So if an operation can alos be removed from the process it makes a huge difference in cost. You can underpin only and the joint will appear sound but it's nowhere near as strong as ...

I've done such things before using this method.... Do the encapsulation as you describe. Use two sheets of glass and tape the edges (P90+?) so as to make a self-contained unit that can be handled. Then, find an outer moulding that will swallow the internal package plus about 12mm. Add a gold slip. T...

At the mo, a Cassesse CS88.

The v-nails are very cunning. They are actually slightly flared so when they go in they try to follow a parallel track but in doing so the faces of the joint tend to be squeezed together. It's the wood that 'stretches' or more accurately 'compresses'. I'm talking minute deflections here, but signifi...

Another alternative is to use spring clamps. These actually work quite well as you have room to cross-nail the corners while clamped. That can be tricky-to-impossible with a band clamp. The one drawback is they leave a 'divot' that has to be made good, but you would have to fill the nail holes anywa...

Morso operation is not rocket science. You'll soon figure it out. There are a few little sneaky tricks with them which you will discover as you go along. One thing is the 'planing stroke'. The last notch as you advance the blades is half the increment of the previous ones. This is vital for a good c...

When it's in a frame you will only see the cover, so why not get a high-quality print of the cover and frame that and keep the actual magazine in a safe place. :D People tend to think that framing something will protect it. It generally won't. For a start it will be exposed to light which isn't a go...

Think of the subframe as an extra heavy duty back. You don't actually have to attach it to the frame, but there are various ways of doing it depending on the design. One way is to use Fletcher Multipoints which have a hole you can put a small screw in. Remember, the outer frame is not subject to loa...

You have to abandon the conventional thinking and build the internal package on a sturdy subframe. There are sections made for this purpose which incorporate the option of forming cleats for hanging. Then, the outer frame serves only to hold the package together and can be as skinny as you like. Thi...