The Framers Forum

In the same area of interest, have a look at this guy's production.
Simple clamps and no underpinner.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuELSsSOn2n/

I don't see why you couldn't do this the way I suggested - float onto a slightly smaller board, fix to some foam-board and have it raised from the back mount.
Then with the aid of a simple sub-frame, encase it in the skinny moulding of customer's choice.

Yes, I understand everything you say Justin. I'd just be concerned that for such a light-weight poster, it would still be inclined to balloon out no matter how careful you are when closing up.
But then there's nothing like trying it out and seeing what happens.

I have to say I'm a bit queasy about mounting this to an equal size mountboard and then securing it 'loosely' within the frame enclosure.
Or am I seeing this wrong?

Titebond 1 will do the job and has the advantage that it's easier to clean up when it over-spills onto the moulding face.

Titebond 3 is a bit of a toughie but will clean up OK. Just remember to wipe away the excess with a damp cloth.

I'm going to say - Titebond 3 is your best bet. But because I said it, some will want to disagree. I only came across Titebond glues many years ago when I needed a specialised glue for making veneered frames. One of the only people that had it were a luthier's supply company. They imported it themse...

Aschkar ..
Of course, I had to Google it.
No reference anywhere.
I even tried ChatGpt - nothing.
What books do you read?

Just so you know how much I can talk rubbish, the description of those corners is called 'outset', not offset as I said earlier.

That's what we, in this country, call a Kent frame. It is named after the artist/architect William Kent. The style is based on a Palladian architectural device where the corners are described as being 'offset'. Your frame would be known as a looking-glass architrave frame with offset corners and ped...

Sorry, I didn't read your post carefully enough.

Good mention of Evacon.
I never gave the issue much thought before.

Question to Justin -

With the method you describe, I'm presuming the spacer is going to crimp the outer border of the poster.
Does this not tend to cause the paper to balloon inside the frame?

Prospero's reply does make good sense but referring back to the customers preferences, would it not be fairly straight forward to hinge each poster on to a slightly smaller sized museum board and then PVA that onto some foam-board? This can then be glued to a larger sheet of mount-board so as to giv...

Regarding the use of a strap-clamp - I always found I could squeeze together the most gappy mitres using a strap clamp to pull everything together. This is especially so when you make your own mouldings. You can never get the accuracy to ensure a perfect mitre. If you can, use Titebond 3 on your mit...

Ah!
If you dropped in the oil at the compressor end of your air-lines then you could splice in a T piece and run your blower gun off that through a new curly hose.
Running the compressor for 15min or so should blow out most of the oil anyway.

Your compressor would already have a filter unit on its output and even an air filter on input.
I don't see what gain you would achieve by adding more filtration.

Two drops of oil every 3 or 4 months would not be too often.
Too much oil will only result in an oily mist coming out the stapler air exhaust.
Very messy.

Right- now think deeply about this.
Your air-line doesn't need any oil in it.
So, what you do is - disconnect your stapler, drip in a little oil into the air in-take, reconnect your stapler and away you go.

If you are not in a position to afford a new set of blades, then why not forgo your underpinner for the moment and join up your frames with a frame band clamp. Even if your cuts are awful, a band clamp will squeeze your mitres together and with the low volume you speak of, that shouldn't be much of ...

Thanks for that JFeig.

After pressing the bitumen is removed from the mold

I assume you mean 'compo' removed from the mold.

That's interesting. I've never heard of 'pitch' moulds before. I'm assuming that is some sort of tar derivative and has been used to cast from an original ornament as opposed to a boxwood mould which has been carved to create the original. Timh is right, they are a bit over-priced for what they are....