The Framers Forum

I suggest a look on the Lion website - perhaps something like this?

https://lionpic.co.uk/p/38819/Cleat-Str ... k-10-pairs

If you put those top and bottom it would do the trick

I use Artglass from Centrado. Mostly AR70. I find it cuts and cleans easily. One of my clients sends up to 50 individual frames a month to the USA, these are 70mm deep shadow boxes, up to 600 x 500 in size. Only had a couple of breakages in 2 years. But they do have packing boxes specially made. I'v...

I have a Steeltrak. I bought it second hand with a bundle of equipment. It is a great machine, but designed for sign writers not picture framers. The advantage is that it it beefier that the Excalibur and can easily cut Dibond. The disadvantage is that to cut glass there is an extra section to inser...

If you look on keencut.com, and then go to support, and then select excalibur, there will be instructions on solving all known problems

My tips would be 1) An excalibur/Steeltrak wall mounted cutter is the biggest space saver you can get. 2) Put everything you can on wheels (particularly the Morso) 3) A rolling Mechanic's tool-box is really useful for keeping the bench clear. 4) Don't forget to design in space for storing finished f...

I now use AR glass over 80% of the time. I find that when I show the Artglass demonstrator, (the one where they think that there's no glass in the middle bit), they always want it. Once we've got over the fact that it's magic, I make a point of showing them that it isn't, and that they will get refl...

I would recommend as a start point to work with 1 supplier, take their advice on top sellers. I would expect them to provide me with chevrons. You will probably need 1-200 samples to offer a full range. As you find gaps in your range you can add to the range, but remember to weed out stuff that does...

That certainly looks like a proper job!

rose & hollis have a good range that you can see on their website roseandhollis.co.uk. You will have to phone or email to get a price list. Most other suppliers have barewoods too

I have experimented with fine polyfilla and plaster of Paris to coat moulding prior to painting. It is possible to make it work, but not practical.

Use gesso if that’s what you want to achieve.

Ash is not going to be an easy one to turn into a solid white, but looks good painted and then sanded smooth so there is some of the wood showing through. Then wax and polish. Obviously if you put enough coats of paint on you can obscure the grain. But if that was the finish I wanted I wouldn’t star...

If you are planning on a painted finish where you don't want to see the grain, I would start with Obeche. If you want to see the grain then oak or ash will be best. As a start point I would suggest some chalky emulsion, and either some polyvine decorators varnish or Liberon Black Bison wax to finish...

Chop it in three and make it a triptych!

You could try lighter fluid, but I wouldn't hold out much hope

I never measure for positioning, I just do it by eye. Sometimes the art looks better not square in the mount. Not a subject for over-thinking in my opinion. If it looks right, it's right.

Glass that size will be very heavy! I would definitely go acrylic

Looks the same size all round to me . . . .

You could always shorten the firing pin in the gun by filing it down. But I expect that you've got too much air pressure.

Should read Left hand extension arm

If you have no left hand extension table, then the Morso is designed to be used adjacent to a workbench of exactly the same height, which will support the length of moulding as you feed it in from the left hand side. In the meantime you could perhaps use a saw horse or similar to create some support...