The Framers Forum

If you google 'plastic binding screws' you will probably find something suitable

There's no problem with framing things that will deteriorate, so long as the customer understands the reality. I have done quite a few wedding bouquets over the years - one being my daughter's which was 10 years ago and still looks good, in a Miss Haversham sort of way! The trick is to design the fr...

My thoughts on this. If I have invested in a CMC then my hourly rate will take that investment (and running costs and depreciation) into account. On that basis I would charge based on how long it will actually take. 27 identical apertures on one mount will not take very long, but even then my timing...

If you like amazing craftmanship, and have got half an hour to sit down to watch a really well made film, you will enjoy this. You can thank me later!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4jArnGzJEs

Hi James Welcome to the forum. Your choice of supplier is going to come down to geography, the type of framing that you are doing, and the personal relationships that you will build with specific suppliers. My advice would be to build a good relationship with one supplier, rather than getting bits h...

You could get a similar effect by painting the backing board the same colour as the wall. That is what I did with these pictures that hang on my kitchen wall.

I use a lot of skinny oak mouldings, and like Justin I have invested in a Hoffmann which is the perfect tool for the job. Before I had the Hoffmann, I used my underpinner (pneumatic) to put one small wedge in each corner (Usually a 7 or 10mm) then used a Bessey strap clamp to get all the corners per...

I used a laser cutter for some lettering on small oak frames that were used as wedding favours.

Justin and Fitz Thanks for the positive comments Yes 3 micron undermount and black standard 1.4 micron mountboard cut with a reverse bevel to avoid seeing the white core and throw a tiny shadow. 3 mm of the black visible. The Moulding I used was Rose and Hollis A354 oak with a matching oak spacer. T...

I hadn't heard of it either, but a quick internet search tells me (from the Pilkington glass brochure) Pilkington Galleria™ Pilkington Galleria™ picture framing glass diffuses light across its surface so that instead of harsh, sharp reflexion, the reflected image is reduced to a soft sheen. Framed a...

I'd also go for the champagne! Tool balancers will drive you nuts! They don't retract, and balance without lots of TLC. Fix the airlines in place with cable ties or velcro straps across the ceiling, get a nice cheap curly pipe, and build yourself a little shelf suspended from the ceiling to put the ...

Thanks both for your kind comments. The answer to your question Peter, is that there's no real need for the spacer (yes the (AR) glass is in between the frame and the spacer) other than to provide a bit of drama. I did wonder when I had finished it, if the red spacer was a bit distracting, and if it...

That was an interesting post from Justin. So here I am putting myself in the firing line in the same way. This is also an item I framed for myself (I am a massive Leonard Cohen fan). It’s a print done by a calligrapher who uses song lyrics to build up the picture. I have used the very tall and skinn...

Thanks Jim. Can you elaborate on why you'd reverse the mounts? Makes the piece too dark? Old fashioned? I personally think that much of a dark colour is a bit overbearing. The overall impression of the piece on the wall will be of a “brown” picture. Whereas (imho) with the mount colours reversed, t...

I would definitely go with the bottom one.

With something like that I build up the aperture with mount chevrons or scraps, until it looks right, and then measure.

There's no wrong or right with this. And I would happily hang it on the wall as it is, maybe even pretend I had framed it myself! What would I have done myself? I like the moulding and the mount colours, but I would reverse the mounts, get rid of the inner V groove and reduce the reveal to about hal...

Float the artwork onto mountboard slightly smaller than the artwork, then you can use a stack of small pieces of foamcore (or pretty much any stable material appropriate to the conservation level of the framing) to build up to the required height.

Thanks Dave

I'll check that out

The reason for Foamcore is that the artist sticks pins into it! The 4 ft x 8ft sheet is 1220x 2440 and obviously the artist needs square not oblong! As to conservation standards . . . . . these large originals sell for tens of thousands of pounds, but the artist will not use the conservation foamcor...