Group Hand-Finishing Course

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Gesso&Bole
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Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Gesso&Bole »

I am running a one-day hand-finishing course at my premises near Nottingham on Wednesday 2nd March. There are a couple of places left - £95 per person.
Jeremy (Jim) Anderson
Picture Framer and Framing Industry Educator
https://www.jeremyanderson.co.uk/
https://www.instagram.com/ja_picture_framer/
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Gesso&Bole
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Gesso&Bole »

One place left now. Drop me a PM or email me if you want to book
Jeremy (Jim) Anderson
Picture Framer and Framing Industry Educator
https://www.jeremyanderson.co.uk/
https://www.instagram.com/ja_picture_framer/
GeoffLittle
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by GeoffLittle »

Thanks Jeremy for a great day out yesterday on your hand finishing course.

Plenty of hints, tips and expertise. Lots to think about and experiment with. A very relaxed day with plenty of tea and banter in your impressive workshop!

I experimented on loads of different types of mouldings and I attach just a couple of piccies of the day.

Thanks again. Geoff
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

I like the pictures, are these from the course? Really great work. Nice!

:clap: :clap: :clap:
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

Hi Jeremy,

I paticularly liked the cornflower blue distressed moulding sample and the ribbed sample below to distress blue one. Are these moulding, which you added the distressing and machined ribs to yourself? I'm really impressed with how these look. Such a great result and both look fabulous. The colours are very effective too! Too be honest, I had some ideas of creating similar things myself. I have a rotary wire wheel on a small angle grinder and could possibly create a similar distress effect as on the cornflower blue distressed sample, using something like that. It's a very nice, professional result, which I would guess must be something, which sells well.

I have been intending to buy Rose and Hollis's A299 (pine) to cut into narrower strips to create some really interesting narrower mouldings and I would be cutting the rebates on my table saw which hopefully will be simple, quick and easy. I have not yet tried doing this, but I think that it has a reasonable chance of turning out quite well, or at least I hope so. I use the rotary wire wheel on the angle grinder for producing driftwood effects on off cuts of Oak. If anything the angle grinder is a bit to agressive and too easily can remove far too much, very quickly, but if I am careful not to overdo it, it looks great!
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Gesso&Bole
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Gesso&Bole »

Thanks Geoff, glad you enjoyed the day. I look forward to seeing some more of your work!

The examples above were Geoff's own creations so I can't take the credit! The 'cornflower' blue one was on a rough sawn pine moulding very similar to R&H A284, and the ribbed one is R&H A64 oak.

I teach the processes, and demonstrate a wide range of finishes, and then each delegate gets the opportunity to produce their own versions.

I will be running another course later in March - if anyone is interested in coming along, just drop me a message.
Jeremy (Jim) Anderson
Picture Framer and Framing Industry Educator
https://www.jeremyanderson.co.uk/
https://www.instagram.com/ja_picture_framer/
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

Well done Geoff,

Your rough sawn cornflower blue sample is really nice and such a great idea. I was really impressed with how you have produced such an evenly spaced range of bands in the finish. Can I ask if that the result of a careful technique, or just how it turns out. Just Beautiful!

:clap: :clap: :clap:
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Not your average framer
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

Hi Geoff,

Can I ask if you rough cut the wood for the distressed cornflower samples yourself, or if this is one of the rough saw mouldings which some suppliers sell.

Thanks,
Mark.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
GeoffLittle
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by GeoffLittle »

Thanks for your compliments Mark.
The samples were already cut for us on the course and they were fairly rough with the evenly spaced markings already there.
I painted on the blue liberally to the front face then sanded it smoothish. I added on a green wax and then used some clearer waxes to give it the variation in tones. I then painted the sight and back edges of the moulding a solid blue.
Then a good polish up. Voila...
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

Thanks Geoff,

I think that it really looks great! :clap: :clap: :clap:

I like to save myself a bit of trouble. I was born with a right handed brain and that is still what I've got. Unfortunately my stroke has really messed up the right hand side of my body, including my co-ordination, strength and speed of movement and I need to cheat a bit with electric machine tools to still be able to cope, but in spite of all that I'm still getting impressive results. My favorite wood for rough wood effects has got to be Oak, it just looks fantastic.

I generally go for a subtile aged effect. Too much, does not look genuinely aged. I like a combination of tinted Black Bison wax applied sparingly with a small paint brush, followed with a sort of warmish pale grubby wash, which is then sealed with Polyvine Acrylic wax finish varnish. It's not a heavy finish, just a very thin one, which allows most of the texture to really show through. I don't always like knots very much in Pine, but knots in Oak is often another matter. Oak can look really great with a few knots, as part of rustic finishes! I get quite a lot of a very economical 20mm wide oak and there's often some useful sized off cuts which get used for producing frames to display for sale in one of my shop windows.

Rough sawn Pine, or driftwood wire wheel brushed Pine is great for pastel coloured finishes. I suspect that customers assume that Oak frames will cost more, because Oak is more expensive, but not all Oak is expensive to buy and I know where to get the nice and economical Oak mouldings from. I try very hard not to waste any off cuts, or waste bits and pieces. Odd bits of some mouldings can be like money in the bank! I would rather produce larger off cuts, than off cuts which are too small to be usable, if there is no significant financial sacrifice involoved.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Not your average framer
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

Hi Jeremy,

I remember that you have a small table saw, so I thought that it might be worth asking you this. I am thinking of cutting rebates on my table saw only and just wondered if you do this as well and if you might know it produces an adequate result.
Thanks,
Mark.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Not your average framer
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

For the sake of easy handling, I like to cut lengths of moulding into managable lengths before cutting rebates on the table saw. The table saw fence is only locked in place at one end and is a little bit prone to flexing if the is a bit of sideways pressure, so it is sometimes advisable to clamp a length of wood behind the fence with stop the fence for flexing away from a true 90 degrees setting.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Gesso&Bole »

I have tried cutting rebates with the table saw, but don't find it a good use of time. Generally I have wasted enough wood to do another frame before I get it right.

I have built my small Proxxon table saw into a bench, and added some more T tracks so that I can get a bit more accuracy. I use it 99% of the time for cutting wooden or acrylic spacers for box frames. Since these are regular jobs in consistent sizes, I have built jigs so that I can churn these out. Doing any other jobs on the table saw means dismantling the jig, and risking having to re-calibrate everything again!
Jeremy (Jim) Anderson
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

Yes, that makes sense! I have quite a beefy Einhell table saw, with a 10 inch blade and a 2,000 watt motor. It probably a lot more powerful than I really need. When I use it I often set it up in my side passageway on top of my Black and Decker workmate. It has a very high operating blade speed and cuts through anything in no time. I have three different 1/4 inch routers and a router table with a set of 18 router bits. To be honest, I think that setting up the table saw is much quicker. I sometimes cut up bits of moulding to recombine them to produce replicas of other moulding profiles for some customers specific requests and I also make up various jigs from Plywood and other bits and pieces. My band saw is my favorite electric saw, because it quick and easy and is always set up and ready to use. Cutting Plywood on a small band saw is not easy to get perfect cuts, but it works reasonably well on normal wood. Most wood types cut quite well on a band saw and clean up well on my bench top belt sander.

I also have a sliding mitre saw, which will cut cross cuts upto 14 inches. It incudes it's own clamp mechanism, so I can keep my fingers well aways from the blade, when in use. It's pretty useful for cutting backing boards square and to size. I use 4mm plywood for these, not MDF. Unfortunately this saw makes crazy amounts of saw dust. Not kidding, it makes much to much dust to ever consider using in doors. It's really powerful and it will chop though 4 inch thick timbers, if you need it too. It's even got a trenching stop for cutting dado's! It might sound like I'm always using these and they are very helpful when I need to use them, but it not as often as you might be thinking. Don't get me wrong, I am glad that I got them, but I only use them, when the need arises. I also produce various odd ball things like mirrors with shelves and display cabinets, or display boxes, etc. I'm pretty serious about quality woodwork, but it can be a bit of a limited market at times.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Not your average framer
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

I have just checked out the prices of those Rose and Hollis mouldings and I was quite pleased with the prices. I think that I will be adding a few lengths of those to my next Rose and Hollis order. I am thinking that the rough sawn wood moulding, will also look good with two contrasting colour paint layers distressed, as well as the single layer option on bare wood distressed. The ribbed Oak will be good for lots of different handfinishing options, including an all black Oak grained finish and various highlighted finishes in the ribs.

All finishes are potentially quick, simple and easy to do, with really helpful potential for a worthwhile profit as well. I like nice narrower Oak mouldings a lot, because they can offer a good range of nice and cost effective finisihing options and often are very easy to sell. Nice one Jeremy!
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Gesso&Bole
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Gesso&Bole »

The ribbed oak one is particularly good used as a the inner frame with a tall hockey stick style frame stacked on the outside.
Jeremy (Jim) Anderson
Picture Framer and Framing Industry Educator
https://www.jeremyanderson.co.uk/
https://www.instagram.com/ja_picture_framer/
Not your average framer
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Not your average framer »

Hi Jeremy,

It's really great news that you have another course planned. I am hoping to do some courses as well when I am able to do so. Unfortunately this still leaves a lot of the country not very well covered for handfinishing training. I am thinking that enabling others to be competent and sucessful as handfinishing framers is going to be an important provision for helping some who may be struggling to help their businesses cope in these difficult times.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
rubyred25
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by rubyred25 »

Had a fantastic day with Jeremy and Geoff,

Jeremy's hand finishing course is a perfect enjoyable way to introduce yourself into the world of hand finished framing

It was so interesting to learn various finishes that can be achieved with the same style of moulding, also given lots of helpful tips and advise
thank you Jeremy for organizing such a great day :clap: :clap:
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Gesso&Bole
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Re: Group Hand-Finishing Course

Post by Gesso&Bole »

It was a pleasure to meet you Debbie.

Glad you enjoyed it, look forward to seeing some of your creations!
Jeremy (Jim) Anderson
Picture Framer and Framing Industry Educator
https://www.jeremyanderson.co.uk/
https://www.instagram.com/ja_picture_framer/
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