Multi-aperture double mounts

Not your average framer · Thu 27 Jul, 2006 9:10 pm

This is how I do them. I cut the front mount first, but I make it bigger than the final size by an inch all round. I then stick the front mount front face down onto the back of the rear mount using double sided tape.

IMPORTANT - THE DOUBLE SIDED TAPE MUST BE WITHIN THE ADDITIONAL ONE INCH ALL ROUND BORDER.

I then mark out the rear mount with a pencil through each aperture using a small piece of 3mm foam-core board or 5mm foam-core board as a spacer against the aperture in the front mount. The chioce of 3mm or 5mm spacer determines the width of the rear mount which is visible. The extra inch all round then cut off which allows the boards to be separated so the rear mount can be cut.

It's not exactly easy to do, plus it's very fiddly and time consuming, but with practice it does works reasonably well. However, it would be nice to hear of an easier way to do it, if someone knows a better method.
Cheers,
Mark

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Thu 27 Jul, 2006 10:38 pm

Mark,

What type of mat cutter are you using?

In answer to your question, a much easier way is with a CMC. I can setup and cut a multi opening double mat in a few a minutes. The more openings the more setup time is involved.

CMC's are becoming cheaper and even one man operations like mine can afford them, especially with finance over five years or more. Mine is paid for now and has more than paid for itself in time saved over the five and a bit years. It has allowed me to fit several more jobs in every week.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Thu 27 Jul, 2006 10:54 pm

Yes I know a better method, but photos are needed, I can't get my head around your description Mark - it's a bit like explaining how to fasten a tie over the phone.

It's a PITA job that is a doddle to a CMC, and when you are talking of mixed shapes and sizes you really wish you had one, in fact you probably avoid the type of job if you haven't.

Multiple aperture with mount slips is much easier!

Not your average framer · Fri 28 Jul, 2006 9:10 pm

Hi Osgood & John,

Osgood, I am using a Keencut ultimat. Yes I wish I had a CMC too, but there's neither the room for one, nor the money.

John, you may remember a few years ago LIon used to sell a marking out device for cutting multiple aperture double mounts. Well, I never thought of getting one at the time and now they are not available, some customers ask me for multi-aperture double mounts. So putting it simply, I use a piece of foam core board to enable me to mark-out the smaller aperture from the larger aperture which has already been cut. Nobody taught me this, I just could not figure out any other way to do this, but I would like to know if there's a better way.

I am currently about to do a 13 aperature double mount for a wedding reception table plan, so you can imagine why I have to go to so much trouble to make everything line up properly.
Cheers,
Mark

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Fri 28 Jul, 2006 9:43 pm

OK - I am well up to speed with orders, so, tomorrow I will make a 9 aperture double mount and photograph the stages.

Then I'll frame it and flog it as a ready-made.

Then I'll take a good look at the heap of mouldings taking the space that a CMC can fit in and have a bonfire!!

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Sat 29 Jul, 2006 3:53 am

Mark,
Perhaps you could seek someone who has a CMC and get them to cut those mats that are difficult for you. It would save you time and make you extra money. I cut mats for other framers and charge a setup fee for the time it takes to design the mat on the screen then charge between 70cents and $1.50 per opening, depending on the number of openings. For openings with fancy corners I charge a bit more than for rectangular or oval openings. Framers up to 70 miles away take advantage of this service.

If there is someone with a CMC that can help you with this you will also save yourself the worry that you might get the mats almost complete then stuff it up and have to start again.

Not your average framer · Sat 29 Jul, 2006 8:08 am

Hi Osgood,

There is a company who I use from time to time, but only when I want a quantity of mounts cut. They are not worth using for single mounts - it just costs too much. I just charge a lot to cover my time and I'm glad to get jobs like this once in a while as they are so profitable.

For my current job, I've quoted £100 and my materials work out at about £12. If I really go for it, I can do it all in not much more than one hour, but in reality I'll probably take my time, (the weather's too hot for rushing), and do it in about two hours.

One day I would like to get my own CMC, but that's just in my dreams for the time being.
Cheers,
Mark

markw · Post by **markw** » Sat 29 Jul, 2006 9:42 am

if you tried to remove my cmc you would have to chop my arms off first - I dont worry about complicated mounts - ovals are a breeze - multiple aperatures - couldnt be easier - and you can save the file and repeat it all in seconds if required. I now design mounts based upon the artwork. Before I would be steering customers away from complicated mounts. The obvious business benefit is that I can now provide a premium service without tying myself up too long production times.

Seating plans for weddings are usually very simple - even complicated ones would only take a few minutes to set up - and less time to cut. If the customer wants a number of seating plans then its all on file and can be cut in minutes.

CMCs dont take up a vast amount of space - the advantage to your business is such that you shouldnt have too many problems justifying the outlay as long as you are busy enough. Offering a reasonably charged service to other framers is obviously a new way of generating business - in fact, if you get one I predict that you will say the same as me - you'l have to cut my arms off!

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Sat 29 Jul, 2006 11:33 am

markw wrote:if you tried to remove my cmc you would have to chop my arms off first

and my legs too!

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 29 Jul, 2006 7:30 pm

OK here's my way, cut both mounts but cut the bottom mount slightly smaller (say 5mm) than the top mount (Top mount = the one against the glass with larger apertures). Plot BOTH sets of apertures on the back of the top mount but only complete the ones you will be cutting out of that mount. The others mark in softer pencil, or even a fine tipped red felt tip and mark the lines near and up to the edge of the board.......

Highlight the corners of the apertures, number them and randomly mark across the cutting mark as you will be re-inserting the fall outs later.

Cut the top mount apertures

Re-insert the fallouts - they are now slip mats for the cuts of the bottom mount, ATG the mounts together making sure each fallout is ATG'd too.

Join the darker/differently coloured marks with the oppposite sides and your bottom mount is marked out.

Cut the apertures

Dunno why the last photo is bigger than the rest!

(Edit - cor, did I make it smaller - I must be gettin the hang of this compooter!)

Not your average framer · Sat 29 Jul, 2006 8:21 pm

Thanks John,

You've made my day! It's really obvious when you see it! Clearly much less hassle than how I was doing it. Thanks again, very much appreciated.

Markw and Osgood,

I agreed with what you are saying about CMC, but I can't afford one and I've nowhere to put one. However, one day..........
Cheers,
Mark

mick11 · Post by **mick11** » Sat 29 Jul, 2006 10:12 pm

I do mine the same way as John, but I also mark a cross in the drop outs as it is easy to cut on the wrong side of the line and finish up with half of the bevels cut as reverse. And don't ask how I know.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 29 Jul, 2006 10:36 pm

mick11 wrote:it is easy to cut on the wrong side of the line and finish up with half of the bevels cut as reverse.

I have never done that

(OMG what has happened to my nose!!!)

Highlighting the corners works better for me, putting an 'X' in the apertures is fine, but the cutter bar covers part of them - a highlighted blob goes OVER the line.

But I still screw up no matter which method I use.

CMC day is coming - I have one problem though - the first 'C' in 'CMC' still does my head in - I think I could cut the above mount before I could even plot it on a computer.

But my full time framer is only 27 - he's got a mobile and everything!

mick11 · Post by **mick11** » Sat 29 Jul, 2006 10:55 pm

[quote="Roboframer
But my full time framer is only 27 - he's got a mobile and everything![/quote]

markw · Post by **markw** » Sat 29 Jul, 2006 11:46 pm

Robo - if you can post pics on this forum you can work out the set up for a cmc - its very easy.

I would suggest that you get a couple of programmes loaded on a pc to see how you get on - its very straight forward.

the basics - open program - nothing difficult there.
click on mat - specify size - open up opening dialogue - specify borders - thats it. (Valiani). In my experience once you realise the potential of the kit - the wow factor takes over and the complicated seems simple.

kev@frames · Post by **kev@frames** » Sun 30 Jul, 2006 6:04 pm

mick11 wrote:[quote="Roboframer
But my full time framer is only 27 - he's got a mobile and everything!

[/quote]

I put one of my framers' mobile phones in the workshop microwave once because i was sick of listening to it going off all day when he was supposed to be working

He actually managed to sulk for three whole weeks before Mrs Kev fired him for whining

Sigh, happy days before politically correct everyone has rights new britain....

In france you can buy special wallpaper that blocks mobile phone signals but still allows emergency service radios to work just in case. Priceless!

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