I bought a used Keen Cut System 4000 when I set up my workshop in December 2017. I initially got it calibrated well although the glass cutter wouldn't cut properly. I replaced the cutting head with a new one but it still slides around on the glass and I've given up cutting my own glass as a result, finding it easier to order it in cut to size.
However, since I moved to my current workshop, I've had major problems keeping the machine calibrated. I can set it up so that it's cutting perfectly straight and then find it's out by a millimeter (or more on larger cuts) or so the following day. On top of this, the board cutting wheels seem to cut anywhere between 3mm and 5mm smaller than the mountboard blade, again changing almost daily.
Is it possible that I've damaged the head during transit? Is it worth having it looked at or should I just give in and save up for a System 5000?
Problems maintaining calibration on a System 4000
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Re: Problems maintaining calibration on a System 4000
I also own a Keencut System 4000 and yes I do recognise the problems you are talking about. The changing of calibration setting is not a new problem, but also the causes of this are known and fairly straight forward to remedy. I spoke to someone at Keencut, when I had not had my machine very long and was advice to remove the metal strips with the measurement rules from the horizontal rails on the machine, give them a bit of a twist, feed them back into the horizonal rails and the re-calibrate by moving the rules into position to agree with test cuts made of scrap materials.
This works because it increases the friction between the rules and the grooves provided for them within the horizontal rails.
It should be noted that the ball bearing race where the revolving turret (containing the blade and the glass cutting wheel) needs re-adjusting more often that you might expect and does develop unwanted play over time. Trying to re-calibrate the machine without first correcting excessive play with this turret is just doomed to failure.
Regarding any differences between the hardboard cutting head and the glass cutting head, you will find that there are some thin aluminium shims between the plate on which the cutting wheels are mounted and the sliding carriage onto which this is mounted. These shims are the means by which the two different sliding heads are brought into alignment at the factory. It is not unknown for this adjustment to need correcting after the machine has been subject to normal wear during prolonged use.
It should also be noted that this v-grooved nylon blocks mounted on the carriage for the two heads with need readjusting from time to time, to keep the heads running true. If these blocks have been allow to run too loose for too long, extra wear at the ends of the blocks may result. If new blocks can no longer be obtained, then your only option is to tighten up the screws and let the blocks bed in and wear down the hump in the middle of each block.
Don't dispair these machines go on for ever, they are built like tanks and most problems can be easily overcome. Mine is about vintage 1985 and has been worked into the ground, but still going strong! Even a fairly nackered System 4000 is relatively easy to bring back into reliable and fully useable condition. I fully refurbished mine shortly after buying it somewhere about 2001. Great machines - bullet proof!
This works because it increases the friction between the rules and the grooves provided for them within the horizontal rails.
It should be noted that the ball bearing race where the revolving turret (containing the blade and the glass cutting wheel) needs re-adjusting more often that you might expect and does develop unwanted play over time. Trying to re-calibrate the machine without first correcting excessive play with this turret is just doomed to failure.
Regarding any differences between the hardboard cutting head and the glass cutting head, you will find that there are some thin aluminium shims between the plate on which the cutting wheels are mounted and the sliding carriage onto which this is mounted. These shims are the means by which the two different sliding heads are brought into alignment at the factory. It is not unknown for this adjustment to need correcting after the machine has been subject to normal wear during prolonged use.
It should also be noted that this v-grooved nylon blocks mounted on the carriage for the two heads with need readjusting from time to time, to keep the heads running true. If these blocks have been allow to run too loose for too long, extra wear at the ends of the blocks may result. If new blocks can no longer be obtained, then your only option is to tighten up the screws and let the blocks bed in and wear down the hump in the middle of each block.
Don't dispair these machines go on for ever, they are built like tanks and most problems can be easily overcome. Mine is about vintage 1985 and has been worked into the ground, but still going strong! Even a fairly nackered System 4000 is relatively easy to bring back into reliable and fully useable condition. I fully refurbished mine shortly after buying it somewhere about 2001. Great machines - bullet proof!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Problems maintaining calibration on a System 4000
I have used mine for about five years and it was a nightmare setting up initially. There was so much movement in the head. For the initial time and stress it caused getting the thing set up I should have actually just got a new 5000.
I asked for advice here and a few members offered some helpful advice. Once I finally sorted all the movment issues out and got the thing set up it has been really good. My MDF wheels cut 1mm more than the glass wheels so I just adjust the measurement scale.
I must have put mine back together wrong initially as my rotating head doesn't work probably so I have always just used it for cutting glass and MDF.
You may be able to purchase some replacement slider bearings from Keencut, mine were about £30 I think.
I asked for advice here and a few members offered some helpful advice. Once I finally sorted all the movment issues out and got the thing set up it has been really good. My MDF wheels cut 1mm more than the glass wheels so I just adjust the measurement scale.
I must have put mine back together wrong initially as my rotating head doesn't work probably so I have always just used it for cutting glass and MDF.
You may be able to purchase some replacement slider bearings from Keencut, mine were about £30 I think.
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Re: Problems maintaining calibration on a System 4000
Thanks for the feedback Mark & Chris, it's good to know that its not just me. My dad always said that I was mechanically driven not mechanically minded and after all these years, I have to agree with him. I'll have a closer look at it or get someone out to have a look at it I think.
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Re: Problems maintaining calibration on a System 4000
BTW, if anyone is planning on adjusting the play in the rotating head bearing, don't tighten things up to the point where the head has no play whatsoever. A very small amount of play is necessary to avoid damaging the bearings.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer