Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Get help and framing advice from the framing community
Post Reply
bookmark
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun 16 May, 2010 5:06 pm
Location: beartown
Organisation: beartown
Interests: Stoke City,

Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by bookmark »

Hi all, just wrapped some foam core bevels attached them all ok, then had a thought about about how do I attach the barrier board/artwork to the mount as I usually use a book hinge for the mount. Hope I have explained it ok
Not your average framer
Posts: 11013
Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
Location: Devon, U.K.
Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
Location: Glorious Devon

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Not your average framer »

That's the big problem with using foam board! I'm got a big box of beveled foam board strips from Lion, which I have never used for the same reason. The neilsen Bainbridge demo on you tube, for their bevel accents only uses adhesive transfer tape to fix the deep bevel mount to the front mount and I'm guessing that would be how they attach the backing board in place too1

I don't personally like to use the foam bourd for deep bevels myself, because of this problem, but also because sticking directly to the foam cetre core is a real problem to get a permanent bond. I like to used the 4.2mm think pulp board from Colourmount and wrap the whole board using PVA glue which seals the surface of the pulp board against acid.

I like to use two coats of the PVA, Applied with a 4 inch paint roller, The first coat is allowed to dry fully, befor applying the secord coat. The embossed paper that I like to use, is painted with my usual 50 / 50 mix of Craig and Rose chalky emulsion and a nice thick acrlic paint, Which also acts as an acid barrier to some extent.

Strictly speaking, there should be an additional layer of mount board between the deep bevel and the artwork, but quite a lot of mouldings are just not deep enough to do this. If you are working to conservation standards, you will probably need to use conservation material throughout, or seal things accordingly.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Justintime
Posts: 1868
Joined: Sat 26 Sep, 2015 8:48 am
Location: West Wales
Organisation: George The Framer LLP
Interests: Gardening, design, electronic music, good food and beverages.
Contact:

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Justintime »

I don't really understand the problem.
Do you mean you can't attach the undermount because of the height differences?
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
bookmark
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun 16 May, 2010 5:06 pm
Location: beartown
Organisation: beartown
Interests: Stoke City,

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by bookmark »

Yes, thats the problem. Normally use the book hinge method but due to foamboard height cannot.
Justintime
Posts: 1868
Joined: Sat 26 Sep, 2015 8:48 am
Location: West Wales
Organisation: George The Framer LLP
Interests: Gardening, design, electronic music, good food and beverages.
Contact:

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Justintime »

If you place a piece of foamboard of the same thickness underneath the undermount at the hinge side, it will raise it up to the same height as the foamboard. Leave the usual 2mm gap and tape your book hinge.
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
bookmark
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun 16 May, 2010 5:06 pm
Location: beartown
Organisation: beartown
Interests: Stoke City,

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by bookmark »

Justin, will try that, simple when you think about it.
Thank you
Not your average framer
Posts: 11013
Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
Location: Devon, U.K.
Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
Location: Glorious Devon

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Not your average framer »

I don't like the fact that the surface paper on the foam board is too easy to pull away from the foam boaed. Sorry, but if I am hinging onto the rear of the foam board, I don't want the foam bonding of the surface paper to the foam board to be significantly weaker than the bonding of the hinging paper, or fabric tape to be to that same paper. I want the hinging to fail, before the foam board fails. I want to frame things to last!
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Justintime
Posts: 1868
Joined: Sat 26 Sep, 2015 8:48 am
Location: West Wales
Organisation: George The Framer LLP
Interests: Gardening, design, electronic music, good food and beverages.
Contact:

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Justintime »

Mark, do you mean hinging the artwork onto the back of the mount? I always hinge artwork to the undermount but agree that if its a conservation job I'd put a another hidden mount between the deep bevel and the artwork.
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
Not your average framer
Posts: 11013
Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
Location: Devon, U.K.
Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
Location: Glorious Devon

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Not your average framer »

Hi Justin,

Yes I do mean that the artwork is hinged from the undermount , I just dont like hinging the under mount onto the foam board. I like another layer of mount board behind the form board. unfortunately the thickness of the glass, one layer of mount board, the wrapped deep bevel, another layer of mount board, the undermount and artwork and then the backing board, adds up to rather a lot of frame depth and often this means packing out the backi of the frame, when using many moulding profiles.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
User avatar
prospero
Posts: 11492
Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by prospero »

This is the problem with using deep mounts. You need deep mouldings. :lol: Most commercial mouldings don't allow
for more than a single mount - sometimes not even that. You have to resign your self to picking deep moulding or in
most cases, building out the back of the moulding.

I like using fillets on mounts, which adds about 5 mm. And if I use a double mount with fillet sandwiched in the middle...
two thicknesses of board + undermount = 4.5 mm + backing + glass = about 15mm. Very few mouldings have that capacity
and those that do probably won't go with the artwork.

I keep a stock of PSE timber strips from Rose&Hollis which can be swiftly attached to the back of a moulding with glue and
a staple gun. A handy one is A 293 which as well as being a handy slip can be mitred 'backwards' and makes a good building
out piece. The outwards-facing bevel looks classy and can be taken right to the edge of the moulding. It's also about 7mm thick.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
Not your average framer
Posts: 11013
Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
Location: Devon, U.K.
Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
Location: Glorious Devon

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Not your average framer »

Prospero has just described a very easy and effective Solution, which can be made very simply, by cutting both moulding lengths and the spacer lengths having set the desired length on the morso and before you change the morso cutting length just put the spacer into the morso flat side down and the bevel against the morso fence and you get spot on matching lengths to the frame moulding lengths and the space lengths.

This saves time and it looks really neat and tidy when everything is all finished. I have a headless pinner, which drives in such tiny pins that you can hardly see them. I use a higher air pressure setting than needed and the excess velocity, drive the pin in slightly below flush and leaves a very tidy clean finish. This is so quick and easy!
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Justintime
Posts: 1868
Joined: Sat 26 Sep, 2015 8:48 am
Location: West Wales
Organisation: George The Framer LLP
Interests: Gardening, design, electronic music, good food and beverages.
Contact:

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Justintime »

I guess if depth is an issue, a barrier paper could be added to the back of the foamboard, but its a minimal saving. I'd be interested to hear your methods for packing out the frame back Mark. I have cut down offcuts and super glued them, on to add depth to prefinished mouldings, obviously narrower than the moulding and out of sight. Always interesting to hear what others do.
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
User avatar
prospero
Posts: 11492
Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by prospero »

There are various systems that have been devised - plastic extrusions shaped like a square Z that are screwed to the frame.
Never been overly enamoured with them. Expensive, and all in all a bit half-arsed as we say round here. What's simpler than
sticking a bit of wood to the back? Only prob is that if the moulding is narrow you can see the strip from the side, but that's where
the bevel on the A293 comes in.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
Not your average framer
Posts: 11013
Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
Location: Devon, U.K.
Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
Location: Glorious Devon

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Not your average framer »

I pretty much agree with prospero, but I do have other ways of building out the back as welll and the actual method has to be an appropriate solution to met the needs of a particular individual requirement. The method used, not only needs to be more than adequate to more than meet the actual needs on what is required, but myself I like a bit of a safety margin as well.

I'm in a bit of a different situation to many of the other framers on this forum, because I also have a band saw and can resize mouldings and spacers at thedrop of a hat, without needing to necessarily order anything in specially to what I think I need. Having said all that, don't make it complicated, simple solutions are nearly always the best ones and if the A293 is more than adequate for the job, then like prospero, that's good enough for me as well.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
User avatar
Steve N
Posts: 2992
Joined: Sat 21 Jul, 2007 2:32 pm
Location: Somewhere Staple Hill Bristol
Organisation: Frontier Picture Frames ltd
Interests: Walking our retired Greyhound,art, falling asleep on sofa in front of the telly
Location: Now in Bristol
Contact:

Re: Wrapped Bevels & Artwork

Post by Steve N »

If the undermount/ backing mount and the window mount with the wrapped bevels are made exactly the same size, there is really no need to hinge them together, once you have made both the undermount and window mountil with the wrapped bevels, place the artwork on the undermount, position where you want it, check by placing the window mount on top, if okay take the window mount off, and secure the artwork, by you prefered method,. Place the backing board on the bench, place the undermount (with the artwork attached ) on top of the backingboard, now place your window mount on top of this, now you can place your piece of clean glass on top of the pile, check for dust/dirt under glass, if okay, place your frame around this pile, flip over and finish off the frame I the normal way. Bish Bosh job done :clap: :clap:
Steve CEO GCF (020)
Believed in Time Travel since 2035

Proud to sell Ready Made Frames
http://www.frontierpictureframes.com
http://www.designerpicturemounts.com/
Post Reply