Deep bevel mount moulding profile thoughts.

[Not your average framer]

I am thinking about cutting up some unwanted obeche mouldings to make some mouldings for making wraped deep beveled mounts, but I would like to give them a bit of a modern twist. Insread of the usual 45 degree bevel, I was thinking about a much steeper bevel, which I am thinking might create quite a stylish look. There are also practical advantages to doing things this way as well. I will be cutting the bevel on my band saw with the moulding face down and the fence set on the down hill side of the tilted table on the saw.

My thinking being that the downward cutting motion of the blade with tend to push the the moulding being cut towards the fence a little, which should help to keep the cutting of the bevel perfectly straight. Needless to say, I have never done anything like this, or seen such a steep bevel before, so I am considering what this might look like. I will be hoping to cut a bevel of the same angle onto the sight edge of the frame moulding, to get two matching bevels. My thinking is that things displayed in my shop windows that are a bit different and look a bit special, will hopefully improve my chances of getting a sale.

The time taken to cut these bevels is minimal, so doing this will be very simple to do. There is no real wood grain to obeche, so cutting it dead straight on a band saw is really easy. If I hand finish the frame moulding before cutting the angled bevel, I can wax the finish on the moulding and after cutting the bevel, can paint the bevel to match the colour of the wrapped and painted deep bevel mount and easily remove any paint this gets on the wax, after the paint has dried. I am mostly wondering what this might look like, if it would be a good look, and if it might encourage customers to want to buy.

Any thoughts, or comments?

[YPF]

Mark,

What sort of height/depth of bevel are you considering? Whilst you do provide a full description, a photograph would really help.

[Not your average framer]

Well, it could be smaller,or larger according to the size of the artwork and the frame, but initially I am thinking about producing the frames from Simons M0093 and perhaps Simons M0095, which would mean that the bevel on the sight edge on the frame would be about 5mm thick, therefore I would make the moulding for the deep mount bevel 5mm thick to match. I would also like to produce a deeper bevel to match the bevel on the Rose and Hollis A201, or A218 mouldings as well, even though using a deep mont bevel of such a size, would require extending the depth of these Rose and Hollis moulding to accommodate the depth needed for such a deep mount bevel.

I have a good quantity of Simons PIN/28 and PIN/29, which both have a fairly thick sight edge and it occurs to me that , it might be an interesting idea to cut a similar steep bevel onto that sight edge and also on the outside edge of the moulding as well. Since these are bare pine mouldings, I am already expecting to hand finish them anyway. S cutting a bevel on both sides is not going to make much difference, but it would look different and perhaps it would look quite stylish too! .I get a particularly good finish cutting obeche on the band saw and I am thinking that, I could do something similar with Rose and Hollis A113 in obeche. This moulding is quite inexpensive and perhaps a good size for making a quanitity of ready made frames, which could look quite stylish, be affordable for the customers and still have a good potential for a really good profit margin as well.

I am thinking about ways of adding value to mouldings that don't cost the earth, but can still be produced to sell at a price customers will be willing to pay, but will a really good potential for profit. That way, if the sales are a bit slow at least a bit better profit will help to keep things ticking along a bit.

[GeoSpectrum]

I think router would provide a better finish. Making a guide jig to allow quick repeat cuts wouldn't be too difficult and would increase the precision.

[Not your average framer]

Yes, I think so too, but That's something to sort out for the future. However, the band saw produces a remarkable finish if you are using obeche, which is also very quick and easy. I like making jigs for different tasks, particularly in cases where they speed things up. BTW, the saw dust produced from a band saw is hardly anything, because the blade to only 0.5mm thick and as it has almost no set on the teeth of this particular blade the finished cut is very nice.

I have a bench top belt sander, so I can remove any slight fluff for the finished cut in seconds. I am mostly doing stuff like this using up bits from the waste bin and it's not usually for the same job every time. So far, I am just making something a bit different to try in the shop window and I won't know if it's a idea that will sell when just yet, bit a jig could be on the cards if the idea is well recieved.