Router size.

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Not your average framer
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Router size.

Post by Not your average framer »

I've got three different !/4 inch routers, a budget price bosch one, an pld beaten op black and decker, that I was given a while back ann a new Rutlands one. However not every router bit that I would like is available to suit a 1/4 router, some seem to only be available to suit !/2 inch routers. I also have found that not every Bit that I want is available for a !/2 inch router either.

So is it necessary to have both sizes of router? I have bought a !/4 inch router, primarily because the router bit sets for a 1/4 inch router are quite a bit cheaper to buy, than the 1/2 inch ones. Unfortunately, I have since buying the Rutlands router, discovered some bit sets that will be really helpful, but don't fit 1/4 routers. Do I really need to get a 1/2 inch router as well? How do others manage this issue?

One particular router bit set I am thinking about being able to make good use of is a bead and flute router bit set. This enables you to rout a bead on the edge of one strip of wood and a flute on the edge of another strip of wood and mesh the two strips of wood together at an angle to make multi-sided boxes. I suspect that I'm not the only one who might like this idea.

A possible limitation with this is only being able to used 1/4 inch thick strips of wood with this router bit set, if you wand to be able to swivel the angles where the strip of wood are jointed, but well, you can't always have everything, can you!

https://www.axminstertools.com/axcalibe ... set-952566
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
JFeig
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Re: Router size.

Post by JFeig »

from the US Amazon
amazon.com/Yakamoz-4-Inch-Carbide-Tipped-Woodworking-Milling/dp/B07BJ4YNMS/ref=sr_1_116?dchild=1&keywords=tongue+and+groove+router+bit&qid=1606137285&sr=8-116

Check the UK Amazon with the search of "Flute & Bead Canoe Joint Router Bit Set"
Jerome Feig CPF®
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China shop
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Re: Router size.

Post by China shop »

I've had a Makita one for donkeys years. It is an 1/2 inch one but it came with collets so you can put 1/4 and 3/8 inch bits in it.
Roger
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Re: Router size.

Post by Not your average framer »

Hi Roger,

I did not even think about getting a 1/2 inch router at first, because I did was not aware of the bead and flute router sets at the time. I only use a router when there's not any alternative and I was thinking that a !/4 inch router would be adequate for my limited needs and then I discover what you can do with the bead and flute router bit set.

How I've ended up with three 1/4 inch routers, was never something that happened by plan. I've never liked the dust issue, but I've been getting more organised these days, if organised is the right word. Myself and being organised, is not a natural thing for me and takes a bit of working at. Fortunately Jerome has steered me in the right direction and amazon list a !/4 inch shanked version of the same router bit set, so I can order one of those instead.

Thanks for the reply,
Mark.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Not your average framer
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Re: Router size.

Post by Not your average framer »

since my previos post, I have had time to take a closer look at the image of the bead and flute router set on Amerzon and the thickness of the tungston carbide bits seems much too thin to be sufficiently durable. and I'd rather go for something much stronger. Thin tunston carbide does not with stand thermal shock very well and this might be why the better respected makes are using much thicker tungson carbide on larger bits of material as needed for !/2 inch shanks. I'm still thinking about this, but maybe this idea needs more thinking through, to solve a few construction and assemble issues first.

I also still would prefer to produce the boxes in a thicker material width for much better durability and better control in assembling these boxes. The cost of thicker materials is hardly anythings, but the extra ease of assembly will considerable reduce the time taken to produce these. The top of these boxes will need to be open and I am worried about the sides needing extra strength, to allow for this. But 1/2 inch thick material is thick enough for me to add a few splines to add the necessary reinforcement and some added decorative effect at the same time.

Tapered splines would also enable me to push the spines along until I get a nice tight fit and no gaps which would also look great if the spines are dovetail splines in a contrasting wood and there are plenty of well documented methods for producing tapered sliding dove tail joints, including many videos on the internet, which are fairly straight forward to copy. The assembly and construction issues appear to be a lot easier if I go this way. Also the dove tail spline create a very attractive feature, which probably would be quite appealing to potential customers.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
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Re: Router size.

Post by JFeig »

Back to your table saw with a dado blade set for mortice and tenon joints.
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Re: Router size.

Post by Abacus »

We are sadly not allowed dado blades in our table saws in the uk (in commercial environments)
Not your average framer
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Re: Router size.

Post by Not your average framer »

I'm also not much into dado stacks anyway. I don't like to spend to much time setting things up and changing blades. Working fast is a real big focus with everything I do. Spending time measuring different combinations of dado blades and shims , just does not appeal to me., when I can clean up the bottom of my dado's in seconds using my electric scroll saw. My scroll saw is always sitting there ready to go with no setting up need, it only needs switching on and I ready to go.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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