Workshop tips

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Thewhitewallgallery
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Workshop tips

Post by Thewhitewallgallery »

Hi Everyone hope you're all holding up in these strange times?

I'm in the middle of having a change around in my workshop as aim to upgrade a few of the older machines I inherited with the business 5 years ago.

I am limited for space but id love to see some of your workshops and any tips you may have as I've taken on a new staff member and so will need to make sure my working space allows for safe and efficient working spaces etc.

How do most of you guys cut glass & backing boards? I use a traditional hand held cutter and bench, would you reccomend another method and space saving way?


Many thanks

Matt
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by GeoSpectrum »

For glass and board I use a wall mounted Excalibur 5000, it frees up a lot of work surface.
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by fusionframer »

If you have room for a big bench and can position it so you can walk all around, it can allow 2 people to work at the same bench easily. This will generally be a better solution than needing 2 separate work stations.

I have an 8 foot by 4 foot bench which is also on wheels if i do need to move it.

I cut my glass on my bench, but mainly as most of what i frame doesn't need glazing as they are oils. A wall cutter will make sense though.

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Gesso&Bole
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Gesso&Bole »

My tips would be

1) An excalibur/Steeltrak wall mounted cutter is the biggest space saver you can get.

2) Put everything you can on wheels (particularly the Morso)

3) A rolling Mechanic's tool-box is really useful for keeping the bench clear.

4) Don't forget to design in space for storing finished frames safely

5) Plan chest for storing customer's artwork safely is a must
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Thewhitewallgallery
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Thewhitewallgallery »

GeoSpectrum wrote: Wed 06 Oct, 2021 7:11 am For glass and board I use a wall mounted Excalibur 5000, it frees up a lot of work surface.
Thank you that seems to be the best option
Thewhitewallgallery
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Thewhitewallgallery »

fusionframer wrote: Wed 06 Oct, 2021 7:41 am If you have room for a big bench and can position it so you can walk all around, it can allow 2 people to work at the same bench easily. This will generally be a better solution than needing 2 separate work stations.

I have an 8 foot by 4 foot bench which is also on wheels if i do need to move it.

I cut my glass on my bench, but mainly as most of what i frame doesn't need glazing as they are oils. A wall cutter will make sense though.

Nick
Thanks Nick good tips regarding the wheels and bench. I will be using these for sure.
Thewhitewallgallery
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Thewhitewallgallery »

Gesso&Bole wrote: Wed 06 Oct, 2021 8:39 am My tips would be

1) An excalibur/Steeltrak wall mounted cutter is the biggest space saver you can get.

2) Put everything you can on wheels (particularly the Morso)

3) A rolling Mechanic's tool-box is really useful for keeping the bench clear.

4) Don't forget to design in space for storing finished frames safely

5) Plan chest for storing customer's artwork safely is a must

The wall mounted glass cutter seems my best option for saving space. I will be on the lookout for one now.thanks for the tips
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by prospero »

I converted an old computer workstation into a ..... workstation. :lol:

All tools and sundries used regularly are aboard. I added some sliding drawers and repurposed the keyboard drawer
to serve as a wire dispenser. The gumstrip dispenser sits on top.

It's important to find tools 'homes' and make sure they are returned to them when you have finished. You can waste a lot of time
searching for stuff. Tape measures in particular. :roll:
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by GeoSpectrum »

I’ve go three tape measures, no idea where they are. :head:
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Not your average framer »

Gless, backing board and mount boards off cuts are easily to store, if cut in to several useful standardise sizes is very easy to store compactly in cubby holes under the bench and is either ready for use, or to cut down to size as needed. Be sides having some ready made frames, which are ready to go, I also have various frame rims in boxes, which are mostly not only for ready made frames and can quickly fitted with glass and backing boards, while customers wait. Prices vary according to the moulding price and the size of the frame. Some of these frame rims are often completed in to completed frames to put in to the shop windows as other ready made frames get sold. Ready mase frames are worth selling, but some days we sell a few, while other days we sell none! There is no predictable pattern to ready made frame sales whatsoever, it just happens, when it happens. Sometimes frames which have been hanging around to long get converted in to deep box fames, or are cut up to make another frame size.

It's never going to make you a millionaire, but it is a way of getting money from your off cuts and old stock, which has been hanging around too long. As a rule, by waste allowance has already covered by cost of my off cuts, so what I can get for such frames is mostly profit. That does not means that you need to sell them too cheaply. Areally nice frames is still worth an appropriate price! Will I haggle about the price of some of these frames? Well, maybe I people nice about it. I people are too pushing, I won't at all. However there are a few locals who I like to help a bit. It definately pays to be nice, if it generates a bit of repeat business. If you want people to get to know that you will sometimes, do a cheap deal on your surplus stock. When you do a good deal, tell that customer not to tell everyone. It makes them think that they are somebody special and they just can't resist telling their friends, some of which will pop in hoping for a nice deal on my spare frames in boxes. I have a price list for such frames, so customers get to realise that these are not just cheap frames, but priced to reflect the fact that these are quality frames.

Any discounts, which I allow are genuine and I want to do it in such a way that customers realise, that I mainly do this only for a few friends. It is definately not a regular thing at all. I look after some of my self employed friends, who sell stuff on ebay to supplement their low incomes and even share a quick coffee with the at times. My town is often a sleepy little old town and a bit of friendship often makes my day. My buniness overheads are quite small, which is just as well when not much is happening. You learn things like this, in quite little towns like this!
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Not your average framer »

I also have various tape measures and don't always know where they are. I work on the principle of safety in numbers, the more tape measures that you have, then greater the chance of finding one! I have noticed that not all tape measures, seem to give exactly the same measurement, seems that I've been sold some which were not all that accurate. Some are out by as much as a 1/16th of an inch. I bought a few from B & Q, for 50 pence each, I should have saved my money, they are complete and total rubbish!
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by vintage frames »

I work on the principle of safety in numbers, the more tape measures that you have, then greater the chance of finding one.
And of course, I'll be the opposite of that.
I've tried having loads of pens scattered around the workshop but when I come to use one, I can never find one!
Now I work on the principle of having the ONE special pen. Always to be treasured and always put down somewhere where I can find it.
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Justintime »

As above, but I disagree that 2 people can work at my 8x4 bench! We tried. Now my partner has a 3x6 table of her own, for fitting/hand finishing.
Underpinner against one corner of my workbench, saves space as workbench acts as moulding support.
My next job is to reduce my "office" desk space. Obviously this is a home work space, everything from consultations to mounting are done on the centre table.
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Not your average framer »

I buy BIC ball point pens from Viking in boxes of 50. Goodness knowns what happens to them, but is there a black hole somewhere that just causes pens to disappear? Very strange! It does not seem to make much sense at all.
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Not your average framer »

There are some tools which never get put away. I have work stations for different tasks. I just move the job which I am doing to the work station and the necessary tools are already there. It works just fine!

I also have a stock of plastic containers, from the Chinese take away to put the tools in while cleaning down the bench top. Each work area needs it own rubbish bin, taking rubbish half way across the workshop to put it in the bin is just crazy!
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Justintime »

Totally agree with Mark( :o ) on bins, we have 7 bins in the above space, all used every day.
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Not your average framer »

I sharpen my own Morso blades on the end spool of the bench top belt sander. This is rounded and helps to maintain the hollow ground profile on the blades and it works a treat. I am an ex-engineer and have made a little jig, to help me control the process. Sharpening blunt blades is really quick and easy, but I am not recommending people to do this who have not had any suitable background training during their working career.

The silicon carbide abrasive on the belt sander removes a lot from the Morso blades very quickly. You can also gererate a lot of heat extremely quickly as well. The level of heat which can be generated can be quite serious! Overheating the steel in the blades and causing the blades to lose hardness is a definite risk andit happens ina heart beat, without you knowing. If you are not from an engineering background, don't even think about it!
Mark Lacey

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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Not your average framer »

I also clean up corners on frames which need a slight sanding down on the belt sander. It needs the right grit rating for the sanding belt, extremely light pressure and quite a bit of practice and experience to produce a perfect result. I find this very helpful, when producing fairly large batches of frames. Following my stroke this is often my go to method of correcting slightly imperect corner joints. It works particularly well with the large batches of Oak frames which I regularly produce for one of my trade customers.

I also sharpen drill bits on the disk sander, which is also part of the same bench top belt sander!
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Re: Workshop tips

Post by fusionframer »

vintage frames wrote: Thu 07 Oct, 2021 12:34 pm And of course, I'll be the opposite of that.
I've tried having loads of pens scattered around the workshop but when I come to use one, I can never find one!
Now I work on the principle of having the ONE special pen. Always to be treasured and always put down somewhere where I can find it.
I used to start the day with about 5-10 pencils and be searching for any by mid afternoon.

I now have this:

https://www.pica-marker.com/en/pen/pica-dry

It stays in my pocket (i work the work trousers with extra front pockets) and i never lose it. Plus you have the sharpener on hand and can get a good point. You can also get pica fine pens.

For people always losing pens and tape measures (me!), work trousers are are a great idea. In the different compartments, i always carry my pencil, a small screw driver, a stanley knife, a tape measure, a 75mm square, and various fittings for a screw driver or impact driver. The advantage compared with normal trouser pockets is you don"t stab your own leg when you sit down.

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Re: Workshop tips

Post by Steve N »

Before you commit to the layout, mark out on the floor, where all the benches machines are going to be, do it full size, then walk around with a 3ft x 4ft sheet of mdf or whatever you use for backing, and see if you can negotiate the workshop safely, don't forget not to bend the backingboard, as you will not be able to do the same with a sheet of glass.
In my old workshop, two of us used work on the same 8x4 bench if needed :sweating:
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