Showing both sides

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Mikey the 2nd
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Showing both sides

Post by Mikey the 2nd »

We have a small yet valuable print with us 2 frame it is double sided. The customer wishes to have both sides visible. The edges are deckled and he would like those horn as well. We looked at transparent corners but I’m not convinced thats the way to go.

Does anyone have any suggestions please
Thanks
Mike
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prospero
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Re: Showing both sides

Post by prospero »

Encapsulate it in Mylar.

Cut two mats. Hinge the mats together as if they were a mat and backmount. (The mat 'fronts' facing outwards)

Hinge the encapsulated print to one of the mat. Show the deckle edge but not the tape on the Mylar.

Sandwich this between two sheets of glass and tape the edges all round with just a small (<1/8") section of tape
showing on the front/back surfaces of the tape. (P-90 is fine).

You then need a frame with a deep rebate. Make a frame to drop in the back from thin square wood (6x25mm?).

Hold the sandwich in with screw-on spring clips or whatever. The flat frame is for the clips to bear on.
The clips can then be slackened and the whole inner sandwich flipped so the display side on the document
can be alternated.

:ninja: :D
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Not your average framer
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Re: Showing both sides

Post by Not your average framer »

I am only aware of one way to do this, which is by encapsulation between two pieces of mylar, cut of the roll so that the curvature of the mylar from off of the roll curves inwards trapping the print in place. You will need to fix the two sheets of mylar together with a special double sided tape such as 3M's 415 tape from Lion picture framing and you will need to apply the tape a little way from the deckled edges, so that the tape will not be visible when the print is display between two mounts.

The encapulated print will also need to be secured in place behind one of the mounts and both mounts hinged to one another along one edge. I like to add a very small piece of double sided adhesive transfer tape to the opposite edge of the mounts to gentle hold both mount in alignment, but enabling the mounts to be gently eased apart without damage, or difficulty if this is required at a later date. The small piece of adhesive transfer tape should only be an extremely small piece. I see that when I came to post this, that Prosperro has beaten me to it, but I have still posted this in case it also helps.

I hope that this is helpful,
Mark.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Mikey the 2nd
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Re: Showing both sides

Post by Mikey the 2nd »

Thanks everyone for your help.
Could someone explain/describe mylar to me please and where to get it. I've googled and there seems several different types. I understand its a clear plastic film but not much else.
Thanks you
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David
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Re: Showing both sides

Post by David »

Hi, mylar is a trade name as is melinex, they are all polyester sheet. Lion do a good all round one, 95 microns thick, #7595. You will also need a special adhesive as regular tapes won't work either 3M 415 #1462 or Lion equivalent #9682. There is also a company PEL, www.pel.eu, they have a comprehensive range of thicknesses and lengths of roll if you want to get serious.... While you are on the Lion website check out a book by James Miller 'The Complete Guide to Shadowboxes and Framing Objects' apart from being an excellent book it has a section on how to use polyester sheet, #7431 p92 in my catalogue. I'll also be demonstrating how to use it at the FATG event on Saturday in Stratford-upon Avon.
Not your average framer
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Re: Showing both sides

Post by Not your average framer »

Not all polyester is the same, there are different grades, different formulations and different thicknesses. Some types include an oil based content and this reduces ant tendacy to be to easy to tear. I don't know what this is normally used for, but it's definely different to the Mylar D as recommended by James Miller, who is the inventer of this technique and the writer of the well known book about using mylar for object framing. There's a bit of a compromise between what thick enough to be adequately strong and what folds most neatly around objects with sharply define edges.

A surprisely small roll of Mylar goes a very long way, when used for framing objects, so you won't need to buy a massively large roll of the stuff. I've got quite a large sized roll and I also using it as a acid barrier between some types of backing boards and the contents inside frames. for example, these have been times when I needed a really strong and solid backing board and I have needed to use 6mm MDF. However MDF can be a source of contaminates with can be harmful to artworks.

So I seal the inside face and edges of the backing board and fold the edges around onto the out side face at the rear of the backing board at tape it to the rear of the backing board. An overlap of 25mm on the outside under the tape is what I usually regard as a wise precaution. In case you are wondering this 25mm overlap is not suggested by some official source, it's just a guess by me.
Mark Lacey

“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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