I have to keep my reply on this topic independent from two posts made by a previous contributor in whom I have no confidence.
Looking at the photos you sent I can see the 'bite' marks made by the 'nose' of the Morso blades.
The blades seem to be crushing the wood at that point and causing the back edge of the moulding to break-out instead of slicing through.
This suggests the blades might be a bit dull at the front nose area.
The simplest remedy to try is to lay a length of thin moulding behind the wider moulding and see if the blades slice though cleanly on the finish cut when they then slice into the thin sacrificial moulding.
If so, then order a 9 or 12mm flat fillet section from R&H and set it up to cut the rest of your mouldings.
My Reply to - back edge shredding
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My Reply to - back edge shredding
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Re: My Reply to - back edge shredding
Just gave same advice on original post. Using sacrificial timber works for a number of different jobs, machining tenons and scribes being a good example.
A165 is an easier fix than mouldings such as A168 which does not have a flat back edge. Cutting those with a good chop saw blade will give a better cut than a morso if you are still getting tear out.
Nick
A165 is an easier fix than mouldings such as A168 which does not have a flat back edge. Cutting those with a good chop saw blade will give a better cut than a morso if you are still getting tear out.
Nick
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Re: My Reply to - back edge shredding
Fusionframer makes a good point about using a good chop-saw.
If you don't have a 'good' chop-saw then even a poor chop-saw could speed things up a lot.
Saw the longs and shorts about 2mm oversize and then shave the mitres true on the morso.
If you don't have a 'good' chop-saw then even a poor chop-saw could speed things up a lot.
Saw the longs and shorts about 2mm oversize and then shave the mitres true on the morso.
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Re: My Reply to - back edge shredding
I'd agree with Vintage and be checking blades first.
6 weeks of use since sharpening + "snotwood" moulding = probably time to put on freshly sharpened blades.
6 weeks of use since sharpening + "snotwood" moulding = probably time to put on freshly sharpened blades.
Jo Palmer GCF(APF) Adv
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Textile, Mount Design & Function & Conservation
Forum Moderator & Framing Educator
www.pictureframingtraining.com
Guild Certified Examiner & Guild Accredited Trainer
Guild Master from May 2019 to May 2022