The Framers Forum

(I've got to stop these iffy thread titles.)

Anyway, what's the best way to get frames to sit as parallel to the wall as possible, when seen from the side?

At the moment, I put the D rings one third of the way down, and ensure the wire comes to around an inch or so below the top edge when hung. I also use bumpers - to help with straightness, and for all the other positives using them brings.

However, there is still a fair amount of lean forwards at the top when jobs are hung. Maybe there is no way to avoid this, but I'd be interested and grateful for any hanging ideas to help frames sit as parallel as possible to the wall (i.e. not lean forward at the top)

Ta

This is not a subject all by it's self as it impacts upon other issues. For instance, how much slack do you allow for the hanging cord. The more slack you allow, then the further the frame will hang aways from the wall, so the more difficult it becomes to correct this. Strictly speaking having the frame too thight against the wall is not always a good thing, and a gap to allow air flow helps to avoid problem with dampness behind the frame.

So plenty to think about. Just a little side note about allowing slack for the hanging cord, I don't always leave any slack on smaller frames, there is not so much need if the overall weight is not an issue. The trouble with following a rigid formula on these things can be that the implications in individual cases are not always considered and other issues can cause other problems.

Hanging larger frames which are using unnecessarily thin mouldings can be a potential problem, just waiting to happen at a later date. Very often, the smart move in these cases, might be to added a suitable sub frame to strengthen the thinner moulding and avoid any concerns regarding the overall weight of the the frame and it's contents resulting in un-neccesary strain on the frame and it's hanging arrangements.

I always take a very long term point of view concerning things like this. It is not unreasonable to assume that the frame and it's hanging arrangements, should be adequate for potentially 100 to 200 years. In general the cost implications of taking care of this are not really an issue that is going to make that much different to the overall price. My thinking is better safe than sorry!

We are not all going to have the same thoughts about this thread, so be ready for different ideas about this!

BTW, why do you think that this is an iffy subject for a thread? It seems quite sensible to me.

It's not always that I use the french cleat, but it's very quick and easy to knock such things up with a bandsaw, if you have a difficult frame to provide hanging for it.

Part of the problem is your cord is too long, as Mark said on small picture you can be a tight-ass and make the cord fairly tight (you don't use so much cord then ) maybe Justintime will be along and post a picture of a diagram showing about hanging on two hooks on the wall, this will have the effect of pulling the frame towards the wall.
I tie the cord through both d-rings then pull to the inside of the frame and tie a reef-knot , pull both cords together and tie a couple of half-hitches , so that make cord come about half way between the distance down where the d-rings are to the top frame, (does that make sense ) might post some pics later
reef knot
reef knot with 2 half hitches

Thanks as always, Mark & Steve. Plenty of stuff to chew on there.

Everywhere you look, it seems to be "D rings a third of the way down" etc. Great to have your real world solutions & tips.

BTW, Steve I see you put the D rings on at an angle. I've never seen that before....any reason, mate?

I've had a lot of success with these sawtooth hangers from Lion. They retain the load at the side rails of the picture, remove the need for cord, keep the picture flush against the wall and prevent the picture moving once it's displayed. They're not for every situation, but they work really well with poster frames and floater or L shaped frames. They're test rated for pictures up to 10kg so they're not suitable for really big pictures where I would suggest you'd be looking at strap hangers or subframe and french cleat anyway. Lion do a starter pack to enable you to try them out - they're much cheaper once you start buying in bulk. https://www.lionpic.co.uk/p/28626/CWH-H ... Trial-Pack

cleaver wrote: ↑Fri 14 Feb, 2020 11:27 am
BTW, Steve I see you put the D rings on at an angle. I've never seen that before....any reason, mate?

Follows the angle of the cord, takes me ages to line them up

I think Cleaver already has a copy of that sheet Steve.
Strap hangers from Lions are also a good alternative, when the frame is wide enough to take them, like sawtooth hangers.
The D rings are pointed upwards, directed at the hanging point to reduce stress on the d rings.

Not much to add to the already excellent advice from Justin/Steve N et al.

With a larger frame I always "throw in" a couple of picture hooks, the double ones, along with an explanation and mark on the back of the frame a couple of crosses where the hooks should be driven in the wall. Two picture hooks helps keep the framed item more snug to the wall. It may be a case of over engineering, but his goes down well with the customers and minimizes come backs . I may be stating the obvious, but bumpers on the bottom corners help keep the frame straight on the wall.

Peter,

Thanks Peter - and everyone else for your take on this. I really appreciate it