I have a framing problem, that I was wondering if anyone might have an answer. I have to box frame a set of 4 porcelain figures from the ballet the "Nutcracker " each item is approx 4'' wide 5'' high and 21/2 inches deep, the feet are uneven & each has a screweye in its head the customer does not whant them fixed with glue. Does anyone supply some form of plastic shelving? tying with fishing line on its own will not hold it firm enough, any good ideas anyone? waiting in anticipation
Charles B
Box Framing
-
Not your average framer
- Posts: 11019
- Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
- Location: Devon, U.K.
- Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
Hi charles,
Are the figures glazed? If so, how about those glue on plate hangers? They have a very strong water soluble gum adhesive, which I assume should be acceptable to your customer. You then stick whatever you like to the plate hanger, because glue on the plate hanger doesn't matter.
Cheers,
Mark
Are the figures glazed? If so, how about those glue on plate hangers? They have a very strong water soluble gum adhesive, which I assume should be acceptable to your customer. You then stick whatever you like to the plate hanger, because glue on the plate hanger doesn't matter.
Cheers,
Mark
-
realhotglass
- Posts: 172
- Joined: Sat 09 Apr, 2005 9:10 am
- Location: Adelaide, South Australia
- Organisation: Tudor Glass - Kiln formed glass
- Interests: Bushwalking, skiing, 4WDing, photography, PDR (Paintless Dent Removal)
- Location: Adelaide, South Australia
- Contact:
Charles,
Welcome to the forum.
Do you know of Mylar (Melinex) sheet ?
Very handy for fixing certain objects to backings, though without knowing what these look like, not sure if they can be mounted with thin straps.
Can you post a pic of them ?
If not, I have pics of the Mylar strap in action I could post.
Welcome to the forum.
Do you know of Mylar (Melinex) sheet ?
Very handy for fixing certain objects to backings, though without knowing what these look like, not sure if they can be mounted with thin straps.
Can you post a pic of them ?
If not, I have pics of the Mylar strap in action I could post.
Regards,
Les
............Oooo
oooO.....(....)
(....)........)../
.\..(........(_/
..\_)
"Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time."
Les
............Oooo
oooO.....(....)
(....)........)../
.\..(........(_/
..\_)
"Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time."
-
James Miller
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Tue 15 Jun, 2004 5:41 pm
- Location: Pickerington, Ohio, USA
- Organisation: ARTFRAME, Inc.
- Interests: Picture framer; author of "THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO SHADOWBOXES AND FRAMING OBJECTS" and "MOUNTING OBJECTS WITH CLEAR FILM"; writer of feature articles for Picture Framing Magazine, USA; framing educator.
- Location: Pickerington, Ohio, USA
- Contact:
Melinex 516 clear polyester film may be the best mounting material for this sort of job. It is very strong, transparent, chemically stable and non-reactive. I suggest using 3 mil or 5 mil thickness. The polyester film straps are stronger than nylon or polyester monofilament line, and provide better support by contacting a wider surface area. Properly placed, clear film straps conform to the shape, lay perfectly flat, and may be nearly invisible except by reflection.
By your description, I guess two or three straps of 1/8" to 1/4" width would serve the purpose, placed to provide the best support at points of strength on the figurine.
A #11 X-Acto knife will make small slots through the mounting board for the straps' ends. On the back of the board, I suggest using a minimum-thickness polyester film tape with high quality, non-migrating acrylic adhesive, such as 3M #889 double-sided tape, to secure the strap ends. Fix one end, pull the strap as tight as you dare, and then tape down the other end. To prevent them pulling out (the clear film is very slippery) I suggest taping only half of the strap's exposed length directly to the board. Then, add another layer of tape over it, and fold the remaining length back over the part already taped down, and cap the whole with single-sided polyester tape, such as 3M #887 or #888. This assures the strap ends can not "creep" out of the tape's bond.
For further support, you could place cut-to-shape paperboard, glass, or clear acrylic shelves into the mounting board, protruding only far enough to support the figurine's feet.
Also, you could carve shaped recesses in the mounting board to retain heels, elbows, or perhaps the back of a figurine's head. This sort of recess-support will keep the figurine from moving downward, while the straps keep it from falling out of the recesses. Think of how small recesses hold the balls of a pinball game -- same concept.
If the figurines have a matte finish and not glossy, then you could strap them with strips of Stabiltex fine mesh polyester fabric. It is quite supple and rather weak, so it will not support much weight. I suggest using a slip of clear film or paper to thread the fabric through slots in the mounting board. It, too, is nearly invisible in some applications.
By your description, I guess two or three straps of 1/8" to 1/4" width would serve the purpose, placed to provide the best support at points of strength on the figurine.
A #11 X-Acto knife will make small slots through the mounting board for the straps' ends. On the back of the board, I suggest using a minimum-thickness polyester film tape with high quality, non-migrating acrylic adhesive, such as 3M #889 double-sided tape, to secure the strap ends. Fix one end, pull the strap as tight as you dare, and then tape down the other end. To prevent them pulling out (the clear film is very slippery) I suggest taping only half of the strap's exposed length directly to the board. Then, add another layer of tape over it, and fold the remaining length back over the part already taped down, and cap the whole with single-sided polyester tape, such as 3M #887 or #888. This assures the strap ends can not "creep" out of the tape's bond.
For further support, you could place cut-to-shape paperboard, glass, or clear acrylic shelves into the mounting board, protruding only far enough to support the figurine's feet.
Also, you could carve shaped recesses in the mounting board to retain heels, elbows, or perhaps the back of a figurine's head. This sort of recess-support will keep the figurine from moving downward, while the straps keep it from falling out of the recesses. Think of how small recesses hold the balls of a pinball game -- same concept.
If the figurines have a matte finish and not glossy, then you could strap them with strips of Stabiltex fine mesh polyester fabric. It is quite supple and rather weak, so it will not support much weight. I suggest using a slip of clear film or paper to thread the fabric through slots in the mounting board. It, too, is nearly invisible in some applications.
Jim Miller