Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
prospero wrote:I would add is a piece of board about the same size as the silk....... When the back goes on it will bow ever so slightly.......thus keeping everything tight.
I usually find that the thickness of the item being framed has the same effect and the seude finish on the mountboard will compress a bit too!
I' don't usually go for bowing backing boards as a means of creating pressure, as I suspect that the board will relax over time and the pressure may be lost. As a result, I prefer boards such as 5mm foamboard which are more rigid, stay flat and appear to maintain the pressure a little bit better than the usual cardboard type backing boards.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
This bit of board behind the mounting board/undermount ... thing.
It's not for me, everything should be made flush, in this case the backing board would most likely actually bow the exact opposite way, from pressure from the points and sealing tape.
Roboframer wrote:2. Something I already mentioned, a Melinex overlay, would work just the same but be, quicker, easier, cheaper, cause less bulk and be more effective.
Or ugly as anything... If you want to put the item into a plastic bag, then why bother with the frame? (Or am I missing something?)
I was comparing to Mark's post which I quoted, here it is again, my red text.
Not your average framer wrote: Place the silk onto a piece of suede mountboard and then a piece of acrylic glazing of top of this, followed by a window mount and glass onto top of the window mount. Then frame as normal
So if that's what you were referring to then, again, yes you are missing something.
Melinex encapsulation/overlay is a tried and tested method - very popular in our gaff, in fact between your post and mine I've just taken a magazine in, to be mounted open - it'll be totally melinex-wrapped; I'll post photos.
I missed that. However acrylic glazing is flat whereas melinex is not. It's all about the reflections
I've seen some of your pictures of your melinex-framed items, and whilst it's obviously an effective solution and clearly your customers are happy which is the main thing, I personally don't care for it aesthetically! Particularly for framing medals or coins where I don't think they need to be hidden under a shiny bent bit of plastic.
It seems odd to go to great lengths with NR glass, and then to put a bent bit of plastic in close proximity to the item. I can't come up with a better solution for your magazine. Pete Bingham uses Blu tac for coins and medals in his book. Again that's probably not ideal, this time from a conservation perspective.
But for a straightforward piece of silk, why frame it in a plastic bag!
It's one option, I wouldn't have a problem sticking it down and the Bingster would have even less of one.
There's always a price to pay when mounting certain things - stick something to it you can't see or hold it with something you can - up to the customer which is more important. If it was my decision I'd probably go for my very first reply to this thread, sew extensions on and lace it, it's the only method mentioned bar sticking it down that will make it flat - again though, that would do SOMETHING to it - make tiny holes around the border; if a platform mount was suitable, and it might be, it would do NOTHING to it ....... but it might not lie perfectly flat.
Over this size melinex, especially at the heaviest weights, would lie flat. Medals are not hidden under them - it's perfectly clear and some medals are very shiny anyway. Silk isn't but again especially over this size, any reflection is blocked by your body, unless you like viewing things from an angle.
It's much quicker to type 'Melinex' and far less offensive, than "a shiny bent bit of plastic" or "plastic bag"
I once did a set of little saucers (2" diam) by cutting circles in mountboard and setting them into foamcore. The circles didn't overlap the edges and the edges of the saucers sat flush. To stop them dropping out I covered the whole issue with acrylic and then glass on the top (spaced from acrylic). Looked fine as I remember.
Melinex is great stuff, but it's a bit like a hi-gloss photo. From certain angles you can get weird reflections which annoy some folks. On something this size I think I would plump for acrylic.
As regards sticking down, one way is to 'par-mount' it. If you pre-mount a piece of drimount film to give you a tacky surface or just use a piece of readymade sticky board, you can smooth the silk onto it and give it a quick squeeze in the press at very low heat and low pressure. This way the adhesive isn't forced into weave but it sticks enough to hold it. It's not like paper. It won't wriggle about and delaminate with humidity changes. Using this method you could easily peel it off again. Not strictly Museum standard practice but yer takes yer choice....
prospero wrote:Melinex is great stuff, but it's a bit like a hi-gloss photo. From certain angles you can get weird reflections which annoy some folks. On something this size I think I would plump for acrylic.
It's 6x4 inches!
Something that small is viewed close up, no 'certain angles' to worry about, plus Melinex is no more reflective than acrylic or glass and as I've already said, on this small size it'll also be flat.