Framing a hardback book

[John Andreae]

I am constructing a shadow box of James Bond memorabilia including 4 signed 1st edition Ian fleming hard back books.

Any ideas about how to secure the books without damage?

Thanks

[pramsay13]

I can't help you, but Jim Miller can.

[Not your average framer]

I was at one time a bookbinder and as a result I understand the way that hardback books are constructed and the reasons why they are constructed the way that they are. If you have a good look at a properly produced hardback book you will find that where the pages join the spine, they are formed into a rounded shape creating a swelling which exends behind the two backing boards. This process is called rounding and backing and the purpose of this process is to support the weight of the pages when the book is standing on a book shelf. This results in the backing boards carrying the weight of the pages, instead of relying on the stitches which hold the gathered sets of pages into the binding.

If the books are to be framed with the book displayed in an open position, there will be a risk that the structure of the binding will become distorted over time and the value of the book could be affected as a result. Recognising the potential high value of these signed !st editions, I would suggest that you carefully examine the position of the pages and how they are supported in order to try and prevent any potential deformation of the structure of the binding over time. Retaining the pages of the book in the same position as they would normally be when the book is closed and then only opening the front board and flyleaf to expose the signed title page is the ideal way to do this. Try not flex the spine away from the position that it would have when the book is closed and this will help.

[John Andreae]

Thanks Mark( and sorry Ive not replied earlier.) Does that mean that if I have some kind of support from the back for the pages to rest on- e.g. a bracket made out of persplex, that I wouldn't need to support the front cover itself ? This would enable me to conceal the support. By the way the books are going to be closed.

[Roboframer]

No, that's not what it means, Mark was warning of problems with mounting it open. Use the method in the link, it works a treat.

[Not your average framer]

Yes, have a good look at the method in the link. Some people have a bit of trouble getting their head around doing this, until they have done one and this is quite a natural and reasonable problem to face. The simple answer is to practice the technique on something which does not matter and you will soon understand how to do this.

I did start making my own reply, before John replied, so I will include this in case it has anything useful in it. I hope that this helps!

No, I don't think so! The rear backing board will help to support the pages very well where they are wrapped around the back edge of the backing board and if the book has been properly rounded and backed, all the pages where they join the spine will be splayed out one behind the other to enable the whole volume of pages to be supported by the two backing boards while standing on a bookshelf.

All you have to do is to recreate the same level of support when the book is open! This is less difficult than you may think! The normally accepted practice is for the author to sign the title page, so all the pages beyond the title page can be carefully wrapped together with Mylar to prevent the front most pages (which are the least well supported) from sagging downwards.

The Mylar is of course quite glossy, but this is easily concealed by placing the signed title page over the pages used, so that the largest area of glossy Mylar is hidden. Behind all these pages a wide strip of Mylar can be used to hold the rear backing board in place onto the mountboard behind it in the usual manner.

Now this is where I like to cheat a little and I hold the signed title page in place with a single narrow red, or blue ribbon along the inside edge of the signed title in the gutter edge nearest to the spine and short lengths of the same ribband to secure the corners of the same page. My thinking is that the ribbons will distract attention away from any exposed areas of Mylar, other than that I think it adds a touch of class to the job.

These ribbons are also secured through the same mounboard behind the book, together with identical ribbons across the corners of the front backing board and the fly sheet. Take care how much you tighten the ribbons across the corners of the book, so that the fly sheet and the title page are not excessively restrained and will be able to expand and contract with the seasons without buckling.

[Roboframer]

The books are being displayed closed.

[Not your average framer]

Oh! I missed that! Thanks John, for putting me right.