rebate problem

[sarah1]

So I just finished framing and can't fit the backing board on as then in comes slightly above the frame. I'm using glazier's points so have been pressing and bending them on the others but this print came with an archival backing so wanted to keep it. Any ideas? Should I just push the glazier points in then add backing board and try and tape it??/ I'm super upset. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[caro]

How much do you need ? Whats your backing board made of, If it's Mdf you could shave some indents out with a blade at the position of the brands, or I f it's artback/corricor squash it down a bit? Or use some benditabs bend them up then d own. Failing that glue some thin strips of wood to the back of the frame to extend the rebate depth.

[Trinity]

If all fails,
You can sometimes save the day by adding some thin stripwood to the back, all sizes in B & Q. If I do this I paint the backs of the frame.
If it's a double mount that's the problem you can cut the bottom mat smaller than the top so your still accommodating 1 layer in the rebate. Glue them together well.
Or, fit your points behind the mount not the backing board and then fix the backing board across the back to the outer edges of the frame - I saw a guy in Holland do all of his frames this way and his backing board was pre-covered with a marbled paper.

[Not your average framer]

How about this, I've had frames come into my shop from time to time, where the archival backing (as you describe it) is held into position with the usual tabs and the backing board is glued into position and on top of this tabs and then taped up as normal.

Quite a lot of dealers selling antique prints liked to do this in the 1970's. Generally, the frame mouldings that they used had shallow rebates because they tended to use the cheaper mouldings and quite often the backing board was brown, or green cheap mountboard, such as Optimat .

I'm inclined to think that this was done like this to convince the customers that these framed prints had been framed to a higher standard than normal. I do have to admit that it can look quite nice.

[prospero]

Whichever way you slice it you can't get a quart into a pint pot.

All the previous suggestions are sound. If the moulding is wideish you can use a piece of strip wood that stands back from the edge, so you don't have to disguise it. Rose&Hollis do a good selection of PSE obeche. 12x4.5mm is very useful stuff to keep on hand.

If the back only protrudes a small amount - say less that the thickness of the backboard, then bendy tabs are the maybe the best. I've been using Fletcher Multipoints (the ones with the hole and two barbed points), as my default fixings lately. I find that they are surprisingly strong and very easy to bend. Fire them at an angle and flatten them.
More than about 3mm sticking out and stripwood extensions are thing.
There are plastic extrusions made for this purpose. Never used them and personally I don't like the idea.

Of course the elegant solution is not to stock mouldings with a rebate less than 12mm deep.

[sarah1]

Thanks so much. Lots of solutions. Going to buy a proper fletcher gun. In the end I ate dinner and noticed the d-rings. I opened them up and flattened them and screwed them on. It worked!!!! I'm absoutely exhausted.

[Roboframer]

I've never understood why any framer (inverted commas intentionally deleted) would use glaziers points to (attempt to) secure a backing board - apart from the fact that they cost the same per box as framers points (big clue in the description there) but you get more per box.

Actually, do glaziers use glaziers points? Do Fletcher-Terry sell their guns to glaziers?

Prevention is better than cure, this sort of problem - here - is sorted at the design stage - IOW it's not a problem.

[Glimpse]

I put everything in the frame except the backing board, fit Flexitabs all round and then bend them up at 90°. Then position the back board and bend the flexitabs over.

Tape the whole shooting match up, and Robert's yer mother's brother. I have to do this on quite a lot of frames, especially if it's got a double mount.

[Graysalchemy]

I use glazier points for one job were the styrene glass has to be held into a frame with no artwork or back.

Tight tools for the right job.

By the way the fletcher black gun doubles up as glazier gun by reversing the block.