ceramic
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markw
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camshun
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu 01 Nov, 2007 10:31 am
- Location: east ayrshire
- Contact:
yes sides need to be visible,,, as for details,, its a cast ceramic piece, it weighs approx 3kg defo not more than,, the subject is a spanish village, hand painted with lots of detail,, my client wants it protected but visible, hence this request,, presently its sitting on my display table,, the curve is helping it stand,,i was thinking of a plinth type shelf to carry most of the weight,,, but how does one secure the sides?i would not like to damage the piece by drilling,,, any sensible help be appreciated,, ta
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markw
I assume that if its cast then it must have a hole somewhere hidden where you could establish a fastening point. Beware spanish ceramics are often very soft and take very little effort to break.
Other more desperate methods of attaching - silicone - glueing wires to the back (hot melt gun best for this). Most of the gluing methods are difficult to reverse - I would talk to the customer and establish its value - and just how far you can go to attach it.
A picture of the object would be useful - we are groping in the dark a bit without knowing the shape etc
Other more desperate methods of attaching - silicone - glueing wires to the back (hot melt gun best for this). Most of the gluing methods are difficult to reverse - I would talk to the customer and establish its value - and just how far you can go to attach it.
A picture of the object would be useful - we are groping in the dark a bit without knowing the shape etc
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Roboframer
A tailor-made flanged acrylic box would be nice!
If you use a mechanical method it will have to be visible and if it's not tightly held it can chafe. Too tight isn't good either!
If you use an adhesive, don't stick it to the mountboard it is being dispalyed on. Cut a reverse bevel fractionally larger than the tile and adhere it to a more substantial backing without surface papers which will give.
If you use a mechanical method it will have to be visible and if it's not tightly held it can chafe. Too tight isn't good either!
If you use an adhesive, don't stick it to the mountboard it is being dispalyed on. Cut a reverse bevel fractionally larger than the tile and adhere it to a more substantial backing without surface papers which will give.
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camshun
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu 01 Nov, 2007 10:31 am
- Location: east ayrshire
- Contact:
hi, first sorry not getting back sooner,, I'm busy run-up to Xmas etc etc,,, thanks to all who gave me some info,, i have decided to do the job,,, thus:,,
i have made a 6" platform with Styrofoam (extra dense),, using the cast holes on the back of piece (referred to previously-thanks for that!), i have attached some light weight gauge guitar wire with an extra flexible epoxy/metal/ceramic 2pk adhesive (no problems sourcing that i used to formulate it in my past life and sell it to the F1 guys!,,,),,, then i will attach the back of the piece thru acid free board and on to thin ply sheet of wood and fasten tightly,, the rest is easy,, i will cut a mount straight on to glass,, creating a 3d mount effect,,, i will promise to attach pic when done,, not up to speed with that bit yet,,, thanks again,,, btw,,, to the more experienced UK framers out there,,, how much should one charge normally for such a job?,,, I've only been at this for 14months,, my pricing policy is,,, erm,,, well different!
i have made a 6" platform with Styrofoam (extra dense),, using the cast holes on the back of piece (referred to previously-thanks for that!), i have attached some light weight gauge guitar wire with an extra flexible epoxy/metal/ceramic 2pk adhesive (no problems sourcing that i used to formulate it in my past life and sell it to the F1 guys!,,,),,, then i will attach the back of the piece thru acid free board and on to thin ply sheet of wood and fasten tightly,, the rest is easy,, i will cut a mount straight on to glass,, creating a 3d mount effect,,, i will promise to attach pic when done,, not up to speed with that bit yet,,, thanks again,,, btw,,, to the more experienced UK framers out there,,, how much should one charge normally for such a job?,,, I've only been at this for 14months,, my pricing policy is,,, erm,,, well different!
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Grahame Case
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Spit
- Posts: 1102
- Joined: Fri 17 Mar, 2006 8:54 pm
- Location: Glandwr
- Organisation: Framing Mad
- Interests: Framing, watercolours & CCFC
- Location: Pembrokeshire
- Contact:
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osgood
