Oak bare wood mouldings
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Oak bare wood mouldings
Who would you recommend for Oak mouldings? I had a telephone enquiry today asking if I could make frames in plain Oak, and I said yes, of course. Looking in the catalogue, Lion (my primary supplier) have only 1 Oak moulding as far as I can see, so I need more choices, especially deep rebate.
When joining oak, or any hardwood, we use an expanding PU glue - this fills any small gaps in the mitres. These gaps occur because of the close grain structure of the oak. Also DO use hardwood wedges.
We make 100-400 oak / ash frames a week from 1" to 6" wide. Also flat profiles join much better!! Good Luck!
Hugh
We make 100-400 oak / ash frames a week from 1" to 6" wide. Also flat profiles join much better!! Good Luck!
Hugh
PU Glue - A glue, used mainly in joinery, that expands as it dries - thus filling any gaps between the two bits of wood. I shall post some pictures of it in its expanded state though the Mods may wonder what it is!prospero wrote:You interest me strangely avantime.Tell me more of this PU glue of which you speak.
We've been using it for a couple of years now as it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. You can get it in various colours depending on the wood being used. The "expanded" residue easily scrapes off, and with sanding leaves a perfect joint. I would point out that we put all our frames through a wide belt sander to flush sand.
Obviously we have much dust in our workshops due to our woodworking machinery, running our own profiles etc, etc - the PU glued frames do need sanding. I know this is not ideal in many bespoke framing workshops!
Any queries on brands etc then do let me know. I must take some pictures for you - these to follow!!
Hugh
Thanks for the info avantime......
Sounds just the stuff for me.
Most of my frames start off as bare wood and a lot are made up of stacked profiles and no matter how accuarately you try to cut they always have a gap somewhere.
I used to use Araldite on tricky woods, but the slow-setting variety seems hard to find nowadays. And it was expensive.
Interested to hear you machine your own profiles. I wish I had to kit to do the same, although it's suprising what you can do with a bench saw and a router.
Like to see some pics of the stuff you make.
Sounds just the stuff for me.

I used to use Araldite on tricky woods, but the slow-setting variety seems hard to find nowadays. And it was expensive.
Interested to hear you machine your own profiles. I wish I had to kit to do the same, although it's suprising what you can do with a bench saw and a router.

prospero wrote:Thanks for the info avantime......
Sounds just the stuff for me.Most of my frames start off as bare wood and a lot are made up of stacked profiles and no matter how accuarately you try to cut they always have a gap somewhere.
I used to use Araldite on tricky woods, but the slow-setting variety seems hard to find nowadays. And it was expensive.
Interested to hear you machine your own profiles. I wish I had to kit to do the same, although it's suprising what you can do with a bench saw and a router.Like to see some pics of the stuff you make.
I shall blow the dust off the camera in the next couple of days.
Buying a Weinig moulder was the logical step for us with c.200k metres of stretcher bar going through each year now as well as the oak and ash. The machine has paid for itself several times over!
As you say the problem is small gaps caused by displacement due to the wedge. I found the Cassesse wedges to be best as they are far thiner than others. The PU glue is great. You say most of your frames start off as barewood so I assume you are not afraid of a bit of dust!
Regards
Hugh
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Got to be Rose & Hollis for all bare wood mouldings, lovely selection of oak & ash, they are a good old fashioned business, no email or websites, order in metres, sent in lengths, billed in feet & inches. When did the UK go metric?!
Practice joining them though - tough little beggars, wedges often appear out of the sides unexpectedly, even when no where near the edge - scarey!
A top notch glue & hilde clips will work wonders.

Practice joining them though - tough little beggars, wedges often appear out of the sides unexpectedly, even when no where near the edge - scarey!
A top notch glue & hilde clips will work wonders.

Manse Studio
Specialist bespoke framing & restoration.
Christina Scurr
Artist & GCF Advanced - mount function & design module
Training Provider
Specialist bespoke framing & restoration.
Christina Scurr
Artist & GCF Advanced - mount function & design module
Training Provider