Hand-finishing - Getting a Pearlescent Finish?

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Fri 23 Nov, 2007 10:54 pm

Hi all,

I've got a project in at the moment, and I want to do a scoop with a soft, pale lilac pearlescent finish for it. I've used Lion's rub 'n' buff to get a pearlescent finish on smaller pieces, but I'm not sure if it would be the right product for this job (a large-ish panoramic artwork).

My questions are:

Can anyone recommend a pearlescent medium that can be mixed with a water-based paint?

Can rub 'n' buff be "thinned down" for easier application, and if so, could you please recommend a suitable solvent?

Is there another method you could recommend for achieving this type of finish?

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Fri 23 Nov, 2007 11:28 pm

Reckon Prospero is your man!

But - how about a paper-wrap? We sell pearlescent papers - loads of colours - not trying to flog you any - they're only A4! But it must have come off a roll.

Quite easy to do - varnished over the top - just not so easy to find maybe.

Would have thought spirit-based would be easier to find - nail polish (not that you'd want to buy a tin of that!) - car paint (saw a nice job on 'Pimp My Ride in just the colour you need!)

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sat 24 Nov, 2007 1:38 am

Perhaps we should start up a special handfinishing section on the forum, called "Pimp My Frame" ....

The pearlescent papers of which you speak, John, are they Slater Harrison?

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 24 Nov, 2007 1:49 am

Er - no some craft supplier or other - I just asked Pat 'Do we sell pearlescent papers?' Seemed to remember seeing something like it when I got lost in the shop the other week.

S'pose you could peel off the surface paper of a Slater Harrison board though.

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sat 24 Nov, 2007 2:19 am

No need to peel, John. They do the Centura Pearl range in paper and card, as well as mountboard.

... when I got lost in the shop the other week. ...

Post by **prospero** » Sat 24 Nov, 2007 2:29 am

Hi Moglet.

What shape on moulding are you wanting to use? Some mouldings will take celluose spray paints very well. These are mainly the cheapo cushion types with the horrible 'plasticy' look (mainly black). All you need do is lightly sand them (not wire wool) and make sure thay are clean - no greasy finger marks and give them a couple of light coats. Join the frame first.
This may work on other mouldings. You need to try a sample and when it's well dry try scraping if with a fingernail. If the paint has bonded well then it will not flake off and you will have a hard finish.
There is a good selection of auto metallic paints in handy areosol cans. If you want the 'pimpy' custom paints then these are a lot more sophisticated. They often need specialised spray kit and about 30 coats.

Try the touchup cans first. I think you will be pleasantly suprised with the results.

** There is a big selection of decorative spray paints available nowadays in the big DIY 'sheds'. There are speckly finishes and hi-gloss brass/chrome and I'm sure i have seen some pearly ones.
Some of these could be good for frames but I have not tried them out to test for adhesion and permanency.

Robo's suggestion is good if you are using a plain wood. I have done this a few times, but usually on mouldings that have a natural 'panel' area where I used decorative wallpapers as an inlay. I am a little reluctant to use a paper on the edge of a frame as this area is vunerable to scrapes.
To fix paper to mouldings, cut the four sides slightly oversize. Stick the paper down with unibond or just the same stuff you glue frames with. Damping the paper first may help if you are bending the paper around sharp edges. Depends on the paper, just keep a close eye on it to make sure you don't get any bits lifting. When it's dry, mitre and join the frame and finish with a varnish. Decorator's 'varnishing wax' is good.

Ricky · Post by **Ricky** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 3:16 pm

Hi moglet
I used to teach hobby ceramics at one time and used to buy a pearlecent medium that you could mix will various other mediums to get the pearly effect my old supplier is now finished, but i found this it maybe of some interest to you, http://www.jacquardproducts.com/products/pearlex/
Ricky

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 6:22 pm

Hi Prospero & Ricky,

Thanks for tips on the spray paints, Prospero. I've used them on candle holders before, but not thought to use them on mouldings. Touch-up cans are a good idea.

That pearlex stuff looks great fun, Ricky. Thanks for the lead!

Tam Lin · Post by **Tam Lin** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 6:45 pm

Miaow Moglet!

Daler Rowney do a pearlescent tinting medium which can be mixed with any of their acrylic colours. I've seen very attractive frames produced with its use. See http://www.daler-rowney.com/prod_catalo ... 4&brand=23

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 7:07 pm

Mbrrrrrr, Tammy!

That might do for the current job! My local art shop carries Daler Rowney, and I'm sure she could order it in for me if she hasn't got it in stock already. Handy to know that normal acrylics can be used for custom coloured frames, too!

Buíochas!

Tam Lin · Post by **Tam Lin** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 9:25 pm

Croeso Áine

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 9:46 pm

What's Welsh for "Welsh"?

Tam Lin · Post by **Tam Lin** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 9:54 pm

Cymraeg

Tam Lin · Post by **Tam Lin** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 10:03 pm

Sorry, incomplete answer. Cymraeg is the language, Cymreig is "Welsh" (belonging to Wales), Cymro - a Welshman, Cymraes - a Welshwoman. The country is Cymru.

Is this off topic?

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Mon 26 Nov, 2007 10:10 pm

Buíochas arís, Tammy! It may be just a personal view, but new learning, to me, is never "off-topic"!

That said, my thanks (buíochas) to other members of the Forum for their tolerance of my tangential mind!

Post by **prospero** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 3:04 am

Acrylic paints are great for ideal for HF.

They are quick drying and hard as nails when dry. Also a dry coat becomes insoluble so you can apply further diluted coats on top and stipple/drag etc for decorative finishes without disturbing the basecoat. I also use them as basecoat for gilding. They will take (acrylic) size for leafing with imitation gold. (for water gilding you have to do it the long way with gesso/bole). I use *Liberon gilt varnish on top of acrylic basecoat to good effect. It sticks fine and an advantage is that you can remove the varnish when dry with white spirit and not strip the basecoat. A neat technique is to let the varnish settle to the bottom of the can and just stir it a little until there is a hint of gold powder mixed with the varnish at the top. If you apply this to a basecoat you get a nice pearly effect. You can even dab patches of thick gold onto the wet varnish to get a patchy effect. Or..... apply a solid coat of gold and sponge off some of the gold with a paper towel dipped in white spirit.
Possibilities are endless.

Acrylics will also take wax polish for some great faux wood efects.

* I have heard that Liberon will shortly be changing the formulation of the gilt varnish to make it waterbased which will render it useless for my purposes.

But I think I have found a substitute. Testing it out at the mo, but looks promising. Only comes in clear, but that's a plus as gold powders are easily available and you can mix you own colours.