wax/cream filler?

michelle · Post by **michelle** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 1:10 pm

Can anyone recomend the best filler ( wax/cream, which brand?) to cover up those minor gaps? I am not sure which brand is considered the best although I do appreciate that the key is not to need them in the first place.
Can anyone help
Thanks

markw · Post by **markw** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 2:27 pm

Michelle - it very much depends upon what mouldings you are using - but its wise to keep a selection of fillers for the variety of "gaps" you may encounter.
The ones I have in my workshop:
Basic wood fillers in a range of tones from dark wood to neutral - water based they tend not to damage applied finishes - but can be slightly abrasive.

Liberon Gilt creams - Chantilly seems to be the most useful - they tend to dry out before I finish the pot - little white spirit revitalises a dry pot. Good colour for distressed silver is Ramboillet - strange considering its a dark bronze - but it works very well.
Patinating waxes can be useful - as can the normal coloured waxes. For bright colours you can use acrylic paints. As you can see you need a selection of stuff. Always remember to colour the inside edges of the mouldings before joining as this often limits the need to apply filler.

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 2:36 pm

Liberon Gilt creams are the best for surface toning repairs.

We use AMMACO filer waxes from American Clay. They are much thicker-harder and therefore fill gaps better. I do not know if Lions carries this line, or a similar product.

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 2:40 pm

http://www.amaco.com/prod-nail-hole-and ... r-445.html

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 3:42 pm

Lion changed to the Amaco Filler range a while back. Pity. I preferred the consistency of their previous range (not as "chalky"). However, they have added ivory to the colour range, and that's quite useful. They also have a "Classique" filler range (see website) but I've no experience of these.

You can blend different colour waxes to match different colours of moulding. Tip: if you are blending a colour for a moulding you use regularly, it's worth mixing up a decent amount of the blended colour (say, the size of a big hazelnut). You can store the excess in little ziplock plastic bags (or similar) for future use.

I couldn't find a link on Lion's site, but when I started out, I bought "starter sets" of the filler waxes (woods & colours). Might be worth checking the catalogue or giving them a call to see if they still do the kits.

While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend a good product for touching up corners on champagne silver mouldings?

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 4:04 pm

While we're on the subject, can anyone recommend a good product for touching up corners on champagne silver mouldings?

I mix a bit of gold with the silver wax.

I also have an old warming tray from home that I use to slightly heat the waxes. The warmed waxes are much easier to blend. I store my specialty colors in a covered water color pallet tray, with a color in each cubical.

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 4:09 pm

Neat ideas both, Jerome! I've actually got an encaustic warming iron: never thought of using it for blending waxes. To date, I've used the far less glamorous "tin-lid-on-dimplex-heater" or "plain-ol'-sweaty-palm" methods...

Thanks for champagne silver tip, too!

markw · Post by **markw** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 4:28 pm

Moglet wrote:"plain-ol'-sweaty-palm" methods...

Is that in the Lion catalogue?

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 5:46 pm

michelle · Post by **michelle** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 7:21 pm

Thanks everyone for your valuble advice. I thought I was asking a silly question assuming that such things shouldn't really be needed at all, and that it was my poor work that was to blame. Having high standards has resulted in me re making many a frame over the last year when I think actually I could have "touched up". I have ordered a selction of wax and creams on the back of your advice and I will practice, hopefully saving me time and money.

thanks again
Michelle

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 7:30 pm

Sawdust from an offcut of what is being joined, mixed with wood glue is a great filler for plainwoods.

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 7:47 pm

I use wax sticks and Amoco putty when necessary, which is rare now that I have a Cassese vee nailer.

I have many mixes of Amoco putties and they are stored on a piece of quarter inch thick glass about 18" x 8" as in the diagram. upside down so that dust doesn't collect in the putty.

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Tue 27 Nov, 2007 10:37 pm

Hi Ormond,

How do the wax sticks compare to the tinned fillers? Are they easier to apply? I've noticed that Lion do the sticks, and I was toying with the idea of getting some...

WelshFramer · Post by **WelshFramer** » Wed 28 Nov, 2007 9:42 am

markw wrote: Is that in the Lion catalogue?

Yeah, but they don't do an acid-free variety.

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Wed 28 Nov, 2007 10:53 am

Moglet wrote: How do the wax sticks compare to the tinned fillers? Are they easier to apply? I've noticed that Lion do the sticks, and I was toying with the idea of getting some...

The sticks work pretty well. I use a small metal spatula that I heat with my heat gun, then scrape off a little wax and while it's still soft, wipe it into the gap. A rag rubbed on the joint will remove the excess.
It's a bit harder than Amoco putty when set and I think this is good!

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Wed 28 Nov, 2007 11:46 am

WelshFramer wrote: Yeah, but they don't do an acid-free variety.

Wot? I'm not conservation standard?

Oh Noooooo! It's r-e-a-l-l-y tricky now.....

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Wed 28 Nov, 2007 11:52 am

osgood wrote:It's a bit harder than Amoco putty when set and I think this is good!

That's music to my ears, Ormond! One to add to the shopping list, methinks! I preferred Lion's old range of waxes, they were harder than the Amaco, which I find powdery to the point of "crumbliness" (is that a word?), much messier to use, and too soft for my liking. The previous brand were - well - waxier!

Thanks for the tech tips, too, Ormond!

fineedge · Post by **fineedge** » Wed 28 Nov, 2007 11:14 pm

Here's a high tech one ! If I need to fill a gilt frame I use stuff called Goldfinger but because it affects the surfaces of the leaf or foil I mix it with cold glue (which is water based) which then has a runny consistency and I then add some flour to thicken (to tacky and thickish paste), applywith finger or suitable tool, clean up with damp tissue and allow to harden. For wood frames which are stained or coloured I use just the glue and flour and tint with PVA paint (obviously only if the frame is treated with a sanding sealer or varnish of some sort)