Waxing Bare wood frames

[robbo14]

Hi having not used bare wood for my frames and being new at framing, have you any advice for finishing and protecting Oak frames. I have read that beees wax was good and doesn’t darken the oak too much. I don’t want to stain but i like to keep the natural appearance of the oak . also which is the best way to apply waxes etc
Thanks
Rob

[Gesso&Bole]

Hi Rob

I would recommend Liberon Black Bison wax - for oak I would use 'clear' or 'neutral' if you don't want to darken the wood.

I apply the first coat with 0000 Liberon steel wool, leave for 20 minutes and then polish off with cotton rag. After a few hours, or overnight I then apply a second coat with a cotton rag, and leave this a bit longer before polishing off (the longer you leave it the more work to polish, but the higher shine you will get). If I want shine as opposed to sheen, I use a polishing machine (like used for cars).

I like the Liberon wax because it adds a 'warmth' to the wood. If you just want protection, and a quicker process, then Renaissance wax is very effective, and can be wiped on and polished off almost immediately.

[JKX]

Liberon black bison for me too, neutral - just follow instructions on the tin, which is pretty much as described above (but I found the steel wool darkened the grain)

I’d usually sand first then clean with white spirit, you can also use sanding sealer if you want to go more sort of purist!

Before buying, just google it and click on “shopping” I bought a 1L tin from eBay with free delivery for less than half the (per 100ml) price of a “well known supplier based in Birmingham” before delivery!

Danish oil is also good.

[robbo14]

Thanks very much that’s a great help

[vintage frames]

Two good answers to your query.
The beauty is, there's not much you can do to go wrong.
Open the tin, make sure it's a neutral or clear wax, maybe read the instructions (who does that?) and rub it on.
Everyone has their tips and tricks for getting a good wax finish but have a go and see how you get on.
But -

There is one simple thing to remember,
Less is more.

I'll try to explain why.
Wax will do three main things for you.
It will protect the wood - finger marks etc.
It will provide a translucent coating allowing you to see into the cellular surface of the timber and so show off its beauty.
And finally, it provides a pleasing shine on its surface.

Now think of a mill pond on a windy day. All you see are the ripples on the water.
But when the wind drops, not only does the surface shine but you also get to see into the bottom of the pond.
When you polish a thin coating of wax, the friction causes the surface wax to melt and by continuing to polish, the wax molecules will cool and lie flat on the surface so providing both shine and translucency.
If, however, you put on too much wax at once, then whilst you will be able to obtain a shine by polishing up the molecules on the surface, the wax underneath will remain opaque leaving you with a muddy finish.
So for best results, build up several thin layers of wax.

Having said all that, most commercial furniture waxes are formulated to allow an easy application and you'll find that two thin coatings will give you the finish you like best.

[prospero]

I have a loudspeaker cabinet that I made at school in 1968. Solid oak. I waxed/polished it as per
the teacher's instructions and it looks as good now as the day it was made.

I rarely use oak/ash for frames but when I do and want a natural finish I put on two coats of bleached shellac before
waxing. It does shift the colour slightly. More coats and you can build up a higher shine. I de-gloss with fine steel wool
when dry and apply a coat of clear wax and buff it a bit.

* I don't like to use steel wool on bare oak/ash as minute metal bits can lodge in the pores and react with the wood, producing
black spots.

[Nearlygotitright]

I use bare wood quite frequently and my go to wax is Renaissance. It produces a very good sheen, is easily polished and combats finger marks. Prep is important - sand the wood with a fine grade paper to get the finish. See here

https://www.preservationequipment.com/C ... ssance-Wax

[Justintime]

Black bison neutral here too.
My simple process:
cut n join
fill/rub corners with Brummers Natural Oak interior wood filler
sand with 180 then 320.
one light coat of wax.
15 mins later rub with cloth, if you have shiny patches give a light rub with a piece of green kitchen scourer til it's even.
Jobs a goodun.