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I’m framing a painting (of my own) for a client. It’s stretched canvas on a 20mm depth bar. The customer doesn’t want a tray frame (nor do I!) and I’m struggling to find a suitable/acceptable moulding with a rebate depth of 20mm+.
Is there any way the the rebate of a moulding can be extended?
We do not know who you are purchasing your frame moulding from. There are thousands of frame moulding profiles and finishes. There are deep mouldings up to approximately 100mm that are bread and butter designs.
It is up to you to talk with your supplier to see what else is available that will fit your needs. If you are purchasing frames from a frame maker the same holds true.
If this is for one of your own paintings, then I'm sure you'd be able to paint one of Rose & Hollis's plainwood mouldings. There are lots with really deep rebates.
If you're talking to them, ask if they can send you a printed catalogue, as it's much easier to browse it than on-line.
Do you remember me extending the depth of frames by adding a spacer inside the rebate? You told me that they looked like cockoo clocks. Well sorry, but there were still times when I still did this, needs must!!!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
No I don’t remember that. It’s just what I call that method and would have before anything I saw or knew about of yours. It’s also being quite polite because I actually think it looks like crap.
In this case it wouldn’t apply anyway - no point in having another frame poking out the back of the main frame if it’s ok to have the canvas poking out the back of it. Also you’d need to conceal that frame/box from the front. The method is for glazed frames holding three dimensional things, usually - and a mount is used to conceal it.
My suppliers include Lanson Juhls, Lion, DJ Simons, Rose & Hollis, etc. Yes, they have lots of mouldings with deep rebates but the deeper ones tend to be narrow and often quite modern.
I need something at least 60mm wide in either a scoop or possibly reverse. Not flat unless I can make interesting by stacking.
The trouble is that the depths aren’t allowing me to do this.
I’m sure someone told me (ages ago) that you can add a piece of wood all around the the back, to increase the depth and maybe colour to fit in but as I’ve never actually seen it done I’m a bit apprehensive.
You could just select one of the fillets from Rose & Hollis and glue it to the underside of the moulding you're going to use.
Use some masking tape to hold it in place until the glue (PVA) sets.
You could also cut a flat profile on its side, something you already have in stock - and cap it with any moulding you like. If not hand finished then mouldings can still match and look meant to be, or even contrast.
1. Flat profile
2. Moulding
3. Canvas
4. Backing board - can be on or in the frame.
Thank you Vintage Frames and JKX - that is the sort of thing I imagined I might be able to do but just wanted to know that it actually works and is an accepted thing.
Although I only frame my own work, it has to be done to a high standard and there’s a lot I don’t know as I’m basically an artist, not a framer. Thing is, I actually love framing and having full control over the final product.
I like John's idea a lot, but have never had the opportunity/right piece to do it. I've done what Dermot suggested a lot, when I just need an additional 5-10mm in depth. The spacer is usually less than half the width of the back of the frame to avoid being seen and I often brush some stain over the edge to make it blend in even more. But as has been said, it's perfectly acceptable to have the canvas slightly deeper than the frame with offsets, unless perhaps it's being hung in a corridor and the customer is not happy with the look.
If you want to conceal the side of the canvas then Rose&Hollis do a good selection of square stripwood which
can be tacked onto the back of a moulding.
