Filling grain on obeche

[girlfromkent]

Hello all

One for the hand finishers out there.

I'm doing a quick black laquer finish using Hampshire sheen spray which gives a lovely gloss finish but I'm having trouble with the obeche grain showing though. I've put six coats of satin varnish underneath, sanding in between, I'm still getting grain show through. Before I go down the epoxy route, anyone got any tips?

And if the only option is epoxy, how and what?

TIA
Megan

[JKX]

I’d take a gess at Gesso?

[vintage frames]

Yes, obeche grain is pretty horrible.
One solution is to rub in some Rustins Grain Filler.

Rub lots on with a cloth then take as much off again with a cloth.
Do it twice when the first coat has dried.
It's important to remove as much as possible, across the grain. Otherwise, you can get lumpy bits showing through when you apply your final coat of finish.


When that has dried, sand the surface with 320 grit paper and wipe clean.
Next paint on two coats of Shellac Sanding Sealer.

Leave that to dry overnight and then smooth back with 320grit paper.
Wipe it all clean and you now have a smooth grain free surface to paint on whatever finish you prefer.

[vintage frames]

Of course, you could just use the epoxy wood filler.
Just smear it on and spread it out as far as needed.
Then when set, use 180 grit to sand back to the timber, then 320 grit to finish up.

My original method would give you a woody effect, the epoxy might be a bit plastic like.

Gesso will fill up the grain completely. Traditional gesso is the easiest to sand smooth, - acrylic gesso isn't.

[pramsay13]

Surely if the wood grain on obeche is a problem you would be better buying a more expensive timber that doesn't have the same wood grain?
Any savings by buying cheaper obeche are wiped out when putting too much effort into filling the grain or putting on many coats of a finish.

[vintage frames]

Good point.
But maybe the profile is only available in obeche.

[Justintime]

I was going to say, try Tulip!

[vintage frames]

On re-reading your original post, I'm reminded that you want to achieve a black polished finish.

Well to get there quickly, you could stain the obeche black with either a water or spirit stain.
Then rub in two applications of Black grain filler.
You can buy this stuff from a luthier supplies.

They use it on electric guitars and that might be more the sort of finish you're looking for.

I would also then use the sanding sealer. This not only seals and provides a barrier to prevent your top coat of varnish sinking in but also has a high build quality where it creates a flat even film over the surface of the wood.
A couple of spray coats of the laquer should complete the look.

If you want to go for the nuclear option, then use the epoxy filler, paint it with some black paint and then overspray with varnish.

[prospero]

I use a lot of 'No Nonsense' fine surface wood filler from Screwfix. Basically I apply it with a knackered old brush.
Dip the brush in water and scrub it into filler then paint it on. Not too wet and not to dry. Then take a cloth and
rub it in, taking off the excess. When it's dry, sand off any nobbly bits to leave an even surface for painting.
After that I prime with thick emulsion paint - two coats. This can be sanded to a very smooth surface which can
be painted with Acrylic.
It depends on what finish you are aiming for. If you want an immaculate high-gloss then you can use a bare wood
but you would need good spray equipment and LOTS of time. I chap once showed me a piece of hardwood he had sprayed
black and lacquered and it was a perfectly flat gloss. But it took about 20 coats - sanded between coats.
My way gives a finish as good as it needs to be for my purposes. No wood pores showing through.

* Sometimes you can find cheap finished mouldings that are 'gessoed' that you can spray onto with minimal prep.
I use to spray the good old ½" black cushion with auto paints in rattle cans and they looked fab and the paint stuck well.