THAT FRIDAY FEELING!

[Fruitini]

Great job Dermot. Looks very good. You aren’t the only one doing it! We’re trying but had delamination issues lately usually at the point of applying stain. I’m sure it’s down to the type of contact adhesive we are using. Do you mind me asking what type you use? Water-based or solvent based? A brand recommendation would be very much appreciated. Cheers Ed

Nobody seems to want to talk about 'hand-finishing' anymore.
I'm sure there are lots quietly beavering away and not much interested in showing off their work….

[vintage frames]

Thank you, Ed. Much appreciated.

I use Titebond 1 inside a vacuum bag for all my veneers with a heavy duty vacuum pump. There is a possibility of using an ordinary domestic clothes storage vacuum bag with a Henry type vacuum cleaner. Orde02, who doesn't come on here very much, said he used it for some veneer work.
You could ask him on a Insta. DM at -
https://www.instagram.com/northwood_framing/

I'm sure he'd be happy to tell you how he got on.
If you do use Titebond, it's best to size both the veneer and wood the day before with diluted glue.

As regards using a contact adhesive, make sure you seal the glued face of the veneer with some shellac first. This will prevent any interaction with stains and glue solvents. I'm also assuming you're using a veneer hammer to push down the veneer. You can buy one online or make one with a small slab of aluminium.

Another option is to use hot melt veneer sheets and a domestic iron.

The stains I use are all water based and from Fiddes Light Fast range.
If you buy Walnut, Red Mahogany, Brown, Yellow as well as Van Dyke crystals, that should cover most wood types.

[bookmark]

Hi Dermot, like the Maple Veener. My I ask why you do not use hot hide glue.

[vintage frames]

Hi bookmark.
I suppose this is a hangover from when i used to make a lot more veneered frames, mostly for an interior design company. We were used to spreading Titebond by the gallon, so making up that quantity of hide glue wouldn't have been so practicable.
I'm also not so sure about the performance of hide glue inside a vacuum.

But as you suggest, hot hide glue would work fine for a single frame and with just using a veneer hammer to glue it down.

[bookmark]

Dermot, thanks for the reply. Do not have a Vacuum bag, but only doing small quantities for a couple of Frames a week. Have a Veener Hammer, and all seems to be still stuck down after a couple of weeks so will carry on with the hot glue. Have not laid any Birds Eye Maple, yet a little bit to learn on the finishing process, early attempts on Fiddleback Douka came out OK with Shellac and wax so will keep on. Thank you for the posts you put up.
Mark

[vintage frames]

That's good to hear you're getting on well with the hide glue. And the beauty of using that glue is you can repair any blisters, easily with a hot iron.

As regards any sort of finishing, the best results are all in the 'cleaning' or sanding down to a fine finish.

[Fruitini]

Really useful, thanks for sharing

Thank you, Ed. Much appreciated.

I use Titebond 1 inside a vacuum bag for all my veneers with a heavy duty vacuum pump. There is a possibility of using an ordinary domestic clothes storage vacuum bag with a Henry type vacuum cleaner. Orde02, who doesn't come on here very much, said he used it for some veneer work.
You could ask him on a Insta. DM at -
https://www.instagram.com/northwood_framing/

I'm sure he'd be happy to tell you how he got on.
If you do use Titebond, it's best to size both the veneer and wood the day before with diluted glue.

As regards using a contact adhesive, make sure you seal the glued face of the veneer with some shellac first. This will prevent any interaction with stains and glue solvents. I'm also assuming you're using a veneer hammer to push down the veneer. You can buy one online or make one with a small slab of aluminium.

Another option is to use hot melt veneer sheets and a domestic iron.

The stains I use are all water based and from Fiddes Light Fast range.
If you buy Walnut, Red Mahogany, Brown, Yellow as well as Van Dyke crystals, that should cover most wood types.

[Rinzleristron]

Hi Everyone,

I'm fairly new to framing, in that I've been completing projects in and around work and life events for approx 2 years.

I was hoping to take the leap into the profession but unfortunately that had to be put on hold. All my work at the moment is for my friends, family and for my own collection.

I just wanted to post my last 2 projects, completed this week, for some feedback.

As can be seen in "They Live", I'm having some issues with cutting random shapes without using the stops on my Ultimat Gold, resulting in some small overcuts but I'm hoping to iron that out with a bit of measuring but any advice on that would be greatly appreciated!

[NTG999]

This made me smile, new mount for a job - the green one I cut underneath, the original ran out 10mm over 550mm, the sides were fine, the customer hadn't noticed for the 20 years on her wall!

[Justintime]

@rinzleriston I missed your post back in Feb. I can't believe noone else commented on it! These look amazing! Did you create and build the Darth Vader moulding from scratch?

[JKX]

I think that may have got plenty of feedback had it been a new thread.

With old long running threads like this it’s easy to miss things as you don’t automatically go to the first new post as you do in some forums.

I knew I’d seen this though and had seen replies so I was a bit confused - it was on TFG!

https://www.thegrumble.com/threads/i-ha ... gum.93485/

The ability to tag people would be a useful feature too.

[IFGL]

Looks quite simple but had to incorporate silver "medal" (actually had the ashes of the person who was memorialised in there), shirt, poster, season pass card and match programme obituary.

[Justintime]

Tidy job!

[Tudor Rose]

As this topic is so large, a Part 2 has been created. Please continue the conversation over there.

Thanks.