How are you hinging your float mounted artwork within a window mount?
Are you using V hinges on the bottom corners?
Obviously, when I’m making a normal window mount, I leave the bottom to allow the artwork to adjust to the climate conditions.
However, with float mounting with no support at the bottom if the frame is turned whilst transporting the artwork moves at the bottom.
I recently framed a large float mounted watercolour A1 size in a box frame using pendulum hinges at the top by cutting through the mount board and had to use V hinges at the bottom as the weight of the artwork, just as the name suggests, was like a pendulum back-and-forth within the box frame.
How are you hinging your float mounted artwork ?
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Re: How are you hinging your float mounted artwork ?
Have a search for hedgehog technique. There should be loads of info on it.
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Re: How are you hinging your float mounted artwork ?
If it's a small print I cut slits in the bottom mount and t hinge as normal.
If it's a larger print or I think it might be more inclined to move I'll use the hedgehog method.
If it's a larger print or I think it might be more inclined to move I'll use the hedgehog method.
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Re: How are you hinging your float mounted artwork ?
Firstly, you don't need a window mount, float mounted work generally looks better without one; keep the same amount of space around the work but use rebate spacers.
Floated work does not always lie perfectly flat, which can all be part of the look, but even the smallest turned up corner will probably come in to contact with the glazing with just a single standard thickness mount. It would need at least a double and IMO it would actually need at least 5mm. There's nothing wrong with using a window mount but it's unecessary unless that look is required, or maybe if you want more than one colour.
Of course the work will tip forward at the bottom if only hinged at the top, unless maybe the frame is screwed to the wall so it cannot tilt forward, but even then there is still handling to worry about as well as the likelehood of the artwork curling a bit due to fluctuations in temp and humidity and all the rest of it.
V hinges can leave too much play, pass-through hinges are tricky and both have to be fitted 'blind'
The fallout method is very good, in a nutshell you cut an aperture 1cm smaller all round than the artwork, trim a sliver off two sides, position it on the back of the atwork and hinge the artwork to it around the perimeter, as many hinges as you need, but even on something only about A4, at least two each side. Then you fit that fallout back in the aperture it came out of with the artwork mounted to it.
The 'hedgehog method' (Video below) is one exampe of that method, but bear in mind it is intended for work on HEAVY paper, it uses a lot of contact points, it is a very good reference for the method generally though and shows both "anchor" and "bridge" hinges - so - tight and loose.
If you can get in to making your own hinges and adhesive, you have more control and that's true for any paper hinging method, not just float mounting
Floated work does not always lie perfectly flat, which can all be part of the look, but even the smallest turned up corner will probably come in to contact with the glazing with just a single standard thickness mount. It would need at least a double and IMO it would actually need at least 5mm. There's nothing wrong with using a window mount but it's unecessary unless that look is required, or maybe if you want more than one colour.
Of course the work will tip forward at the bottom if only hinged at the top, unless maybe the frame is screwed to the wall so it cannot tilt forward, but even then there is still handling to worry about as well as the likelehood of the artwork curling a bit due to fluctuations in temp and humidity and all the rest of it.
V hinges can leave too much play, pass-through hinges are tricky and both have to be fitted 'blind'
The fallout method is very good, in a nutshell you cut an aperture 1cm smaller all round than the artwork, trim a sliver off two sides, position it on the back of the atwork and hinge the artwork to it around the perimeter, as many hinges as you need, but even on something only about A4, at least two each side. Then you fit that fallout back in the aperture it came out of with the artwork mounted to it.
The 'hedgehog method' (Video below) is one exampe of that method, but bear in mind it is intended for work on HEAVY paper, it uses a lot of contact points, it is a very good reference for the method generally though and shows both "anchor" and "bridge" hinges - so - tight and loose.
If you can get in to making your own hinges and adhesive, you have more control and that's true for any paper hinging method, not just float mounting