Gold frame moulding

[Gillthepainter]

What is your favourite standard moulding for gilded frames please?
Not the glamorous ornate style, but one that will suit most pictures in general, when put behind glass with a white mount.

I'm looking for a gold style as a regular frame I can make up. I usually make either neutral wood frames, or white, but have enjoyed putting gold frames round my pictures.
But I am not making them, I'm picking them up in antique barns and shops, if I find ones that don't need any attention.
I'd prefer to fit the frame to the picture whenever I want now, though.

[vintage frames]

Are you talking about mass-produced gilded mouldings or bare wood profiles to be gilded yourself?

For the sort of picture you suggest, ie white mount behind glass, R&H PP112 is inoffensive enough to suit most styles of painting.

You could get away with a wipe over with thick white paint on the joined up frame, seal it with shellac and the oil-gild it with Dutch metal leaves.
Sort of stuff they would do in an evening class.

[prospero]

At one time Gold was a sign of opulence. The goldier the better, even though it did nothing to enhance
the actual art. The Victorians were very keen on this.

I like a more subtle muted gold. That why I gild my own frames with Bronze powder bond in varnish.
You can produce a fairly bright finish doing this but not as much a burnished real Gold.
Mostly I give the gold a diluted wash of white emulsion which dries to a greyish tone - strategically wiped
off and dry-brushed while wet. Depending on the moulding shape he wash will lay heavier in grooves and
in ornamental elements.
I've actually refinished brassy cheapo swept frames to a finish that looks ivory/grey with gold on the high points.
They look 100% more 'classy'. This type of frame was made to emulate Victorian tastes (or lack of). But the
actual ornate design is attractive on some art. They just need the bling knocking back a tad.

[Gillthepainter]

Good morning and thank you, both.
I was thinking first of all of buying a gilt moulding, but once again you are giving me the confidence to do the gold effect myself.

I have Robersons bronze powder and have only used it on trims occasionally.

[vintage frames]

Definately try doing something yourself.
Nobodys going to buy any of your art just because you've framed it in a mass-produced gilded frame.

If you want to get noticed, then the frame needs to be singing along with the art.

Try out the bronze powders and see how you get on with it.

Bronze powders and metal leaf give an impression of patinated gold leaf. Use very subtle over-glazes or washes to tone down their initial brilliance, just as Prospero has alluded to.

Just keep in mind that there is a large and quiet cohort of people who know and value what the real thing looks like.
Perhaps aim to meet them sometime in the future.

[prospero]

If you want to dabble in the Dark Art then try Damar crystals dissolved in Turpentine (the real sort).
Then strain and mix the liquid with the Bronze Powder. I use mainly 2.5 cut from Gold Leaf Supplies.

I use a varnish brand that I used to get from Germany (Klarlack) but it has become hard to get in 500ml tins.
Fortunately I bought a good supply but I'm getting through it. I've experimented with the Damar mix and
it seems to work OK....

The main thing with the varnish is that it must be soluble in turps (or White Spirit) after it dries and it must
dry fast. Water based varnish will work but it cannot be altered once dry and sometimes you need more control
if you put too thick a coat on. There's no control. Various other varnishes work but take hours(days?) to dry.
Others need Acetone to remove.

Mix the powder into the varnish a bit at a time until is is fairly thick but not too thick. You have to experiment
to get the right consistency. To apply it you don't need a fancy brush, in fact I use the natural hair cheapo disposable
ones that are a bit 'rough'. You have to stipple it on rather than brush it and don't apply too much at once. The brush
should be almost 'dry'. It's a question of building the right finish and with practice you can get the desired effect.
*I always lay it on a base of artists acrylic paint. The paint is water based and you can strip the gold off quickly
with white spirit without disturbing the underlying paint layer if you go wrong.



Good Luck.

[Gillthepainter]

Thank you, Prospero.
Once I've finished dry stone walling my collapsed wall, I shall make a go of this, in time for my December exhibition.

You are all very kind.

[vintage frames]

Damar crystals dissolved in Turpentine (the real sort).

Is there an advantage to making your own damar varnish rather than using ready made in a bottle?

[prospero]

Is there an advantage to making your own damar varnish rather than using ready made in a bottle?

Come to think of it, maybe not. Except for cost perhaps.....

I will have to do feasibility study.