Spacers - finishing

[toothy]

Hi there, when working with raw woods, I'm often finishing with wax. Eg Liberon Bison Wax. This particular wax gives of questionable fumes (so any good alternatives would be greatly welcomed).

In order to get matching good looking spacers, I really need to wax these also, however I understand some may suggest this is not safe with keeping the artwork safe (especially if working to proper conservation levels). I can leave it for a few days before sealing the frame (although this can be frustrating) - even then I'm not sure the 'off-gassing' has totally subsided.

Or am I making a big fuss over nothing and should not worry too much about waxing and sealing the same day?

Many thanks for any thoughts on the matter!

[JKX]

If working to conservation standards there should be no wood inside the frame at all. waxed or not. If close framing something, the rebate is sealed with something like lineco foil tape, and that’s probably going to behind foam board/mountboard spacers too.

[Justintime]

Questionable fumes?? That's the smell of skill and expertise! So many customers comment on how good my space smells when I've been waxing. Imo there's never any need to wax an internal spacer. If it's a dark wax on the outside then you could use a water based stain to match it. Offgassing is a real issue and besides harming the work it can also create a nasty hazy mark on the inside of the glass. It's not worth the risk, adding anything to the inside of the package that may off gas.
It sounds to me like you would benefit from networking with some other framers. I've made a point of contacting most of the other framers local to me (and I meet up with a number of other framers from further afield when I'm passing) If they're the type to feel threatened by that, then they're not worth your time, but on the whole we're a friendly caring sharing bunch and much can be learnt and many questions answered over a cuppa at a fellow framer's workshop.

[vintage frames]

The smell you are getting off the Black Bison wax is from a petroleum based solvent.
The Fiddes wax claims that it has reduced their solvent VOC's, so maybe have a look at those.
Or if you really want to do something a bit different, make your own wax.

I do this -
Tip a few table spoons of Bee's wax pellets (e-bay) into a Greek style yogurt pot and cover well with PURE turpentine.
Add a tea-spoon amount of Carnauba wax (e-bay again)and leave to soak overnight.

Float the yogurt pot in a saucepan of boiling water and stir until all the wax has melted, leaving a clear liquid.
Let it cool to solidify. If too solid, then add more turpentine.

When I use a wax finish on some of the frames I make, the galleries I send them to always say how pleasant it is to open the box and get that evocative smell of turpentine and beeswax.
The bees make the wax, pine trees provide the turpentine.

[toothy]

Thanks all for your replies. Really useful info and good learning - helped a lot.

Also, love the recipe for wax - thank you.

Sometimes I wish I had a time machine so I could quickly skip forwards and backwards to see how frames age long-term (as I always prefer to learn from first hand experience)

And yes I love meeting other framers, I've met a few locally who are very nice and helpful. I'd like to meet more (but I probably ask too many questions

Cheers

[prospero]

I use Black Bison all the time and have done for many years .
The fumes are just the solvent that keeps it workable.
After application the solvent (turps or similar) should evaporate quickly.

** I don't really see any value in waxing spacers. A wipe over with a water-based stain will give the same look.

[JKX]

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