Wet backing tape

Post examples...
Of framing styles or techniques that rocked your boat, and also of those that didn't
The Crofter
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Wet backing tape

Post by The Crofter »

Just thought I would ask if there are any different techniques involved when using wet backing tape vs self adhesive.
Pat
osgood

Post by osgood »

Pat,
My tip is to leave it in the suppliers warehouse! I hate the stuff!
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Post by kev@frames »

only tip i have: wait a few seconds for it to become tacky before applying.
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Post by Moglet »

osgood wrote: I hate the stuff!
Which one, Ormond: SA or licky sticky? :?
........Áine JGF SGF FTB
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osgood

Post by osgood »

Woops........"Wet"!
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Post by The Crofter »

Sorry, I should have phrased that better....

I am about to switch over TO wet tape from self adhesive so looking for tips on how to use it.

I presume osgood was refering to the SA tape :)
Pat
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prospero
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Post by prospero »

Wet it - slap it on - smooth it out. End of. :D

A dispensing machine is vitually essential. Best sort are the ones that have a handle and measuring scale. Pull the handle around to the length you want on the scale and a pre-wetted bit will emerge. Release the handle and it cuts it off neatly. The machines are not cheap. (£300+), but given that you will use it on practically every frame, worth it in the long run.
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Post by Moglet »

The Crofter wrote:I presume osgood was refering to the SA tape :)
Not according to the "Guild Commended?" thread.... :wink: :lol:
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Post by Framer Dave »

Warm water will activate the adhesive faster.

Give it a little time, maybe 30-60 seconds, to activate and get nice and sticky.

That's all I got.
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Post by foxyframer »

Always used good quality gumstrip tape 1" 2" & 3". I have never used a dispenser, although the same or better result can be achieved running it over a wet sponge in a small bath of warm water; no delay in applying or it will curl up. A thick cotton cloth helps to apply. I find any delay results in drying out or unmanagable.

The only time I ever use self adhesive tape is when the backs of frames have a coating and don't want to know. That's not very often.

Gumstrip properly applied and neatly trimmed always looks professional.

Foxy
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Post by The Jolly Good Framer #1 »

Keep the water in the dispenser well topped up and replace the water daily.
Every so often wash the water tank out and wash the brush with some washing-up liquid, especially if its not wetting the tape properly.

To start with you will find it a bit messy but with a bit of practice you will get the hang of it. (If I can do it, it can’t be that hard!).
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Post by prospero »

What about frames for oils that don't need sealing. I always paper the backs for a neater appearance. (NOT over the canvas I might add). Many of the frames I do are stacked and handfinished to boot. So they look untidy from the back. Some are 5"+ wide. Using sa tape would not be desorable in these frames. I always apply the tape from the edge of the frame and right into the rebate.
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Post by The Crofter »

Well that has been an interesting...

The last thing I expected was to hear that there is a split between SA & Gum Tape. I thought that I would be soundly scolded (!) for not using wet tape, a technique that goes back many years, but this has not been the case. Irrational perhaps but part of the concern was that I (or so I thought) was breaking my own rules regarding conservation framing. Only the wet tape in the Lion catalogue has a conservation approval rating so I naturally assumed the other tapes (SA) would not qualify.

It would seem that as the tape is far removed from the artwork there is less concern for its chemical properties (nobody voiced an opinion) and the objections are aesthetics and adhesion.

Given that SA tape is in general use and the good/bad comments are split I intend to continue with SA. No disrespect to those who use wet tape but the choice seems to be down to the individual so I will stick (sorry) with ECO tape.

Perhaps this subject may make an interesting poll question. Thanks for the feedback.
Pat
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Post by prospero »

Good on ya Pat. Stick to your guns M8. :D

A a matter of interest, I have just had a frame in that I did over 20years ago (customer wanted another in the same moulding - dream on) and sealed with an ECO-type tape. Apart from a bit of lifting on the corners it looks fine.
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Post by Not your average framer »

The Crofter wrote:It would seem that as the tape is far removed from the artwork there is less concern for its chemical properties (nobody voiced an opinion) and the objections are aesthetics and adhesion.
The conservation objection to self-adhesive tape includes the following:-

"Out-gassing", from chemical components in the adhesive.

Harmful breakdown products released while the tapes adhesive degrades over time.

The non-porous nature of self-adhesive tape, which does not permit the the contents of the frame to breathe. Non-porous not only due to the self-adhesive on the tape, but also due to the silicone coating which prevents the tape sticking to much to it's self on the roll when you are trying to peel it off, so you can use it.

Licky-sticky is breathable and therefore is better for the contents of the frame and prevents brittleness of some paper items being made worse by excessive dryness due to the desicating nature of wood frames. A breathable backing tape will allow the normal humidity in the air to counter the drying effects of the wood frame. Dry wood has good desicating properties.
Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

Not your average framer wrote:
Licky-sticky is breathable and therefore is better for the contents of the frame .
A long time ago I asked a question on The Grumble - "If you seal the glass/mat/mount (mount/undermount to us) package with tape such as the lineco foil one, will it trap stale air and form a 'micro-climate' .....?"

I read in ABT, a long time before that, that that is what could happen.

The answer was 'No' - the only true barriers are glass and metal, therefore, whatever tape you use to seal the back of a frame, unless it is backed with glass or metal and the package sealed with foil tape, it will 'breathe'.
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Post by Not your average framer »

Hi John,

The rate at which some backing boards breathe can be quite limited, especially the water resistant types. Anything which reduces the breathability factor can have an effect.

Whilst they are not a complete barrier, they do act as a filter. If you are filling a bath with a tea cup, while someone else is emptying it with a bucket, may be a useful point to consider here.

Reduced breathability can still result in reduced humidity within the frame package.
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Post by Moglet »

Maybe I'm miles out here but, assuming that there is no airtight seal between glass and rebate, 'breathability' would be provided through the front of the frame? :?
........Áine JGF SGF FTB
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Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

Fairy nuff, just that better/more qualified types than you and I reckon it's not an issue.

If you've not sealed the glass in to the package it's even less of one.

Because it's not an issue (for me) and for a few other reasons, not least of all price - licky sticky is my default, especially the black stuff from blackstuff framing supplies.
Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

That's me and Áine answering Mark, not me answering Áine!

(Dang this no edit facility on this forum)
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