Tile in a DR frame in a Kitchen

[Bagel Framer]

Hi all,

I have a ceramic tile to frame for a friend and was going to frame it in one of Lion's Deep Rebate frames that I use from time to time.

This frame is to go in the friend's kitchen, so the temperature is going to fluctuate. Are there any special considerations that you would adopt to the frame, ie. adding silicone sealant etc, etc?

The tile is about 6mm thick and is one that her 7 year old son has done at school. I'm also wondering what surface to adhere the tile too ie, MDF and was planning on using tile cement. I'd also like to put a mountboard round the back of the tile ideally, but failing that it would have to be flush with the sides of the tile (which would in turn help keep the tile in the frame) on the basis that foamboard can make up the distance between mountboard and backing.

Thanks,

Sean

[Jonny2morsos]

Here is something I did recently. Not a tile but a small print float mounted on a piece of museum board over acid free foamboard. A deep rebate moulding (Arqadia 307 453 167, same available from Neilsen, Wessex/Frinton) and a Lion spacer moulding (L1341). Glazed with Tru Vue Conservation and back mount in a Brittania conservation board to match colour of the paper of the print.

Still can't believe this print is worth in the region of £500.00!

John.

[Jonny2morsos]

Sorry Guys

Here is the picture. System did not like trying to upload a file taken on 8.2mega pixel camera!

John.

[Roboframer]

It really should be floated - mount just over it and the 3D effect is lost - it may as well be a print, of a tile.

There are (non conservation police) advantages to using non-adhesive methods for 3D objects.

If you're going to glue it in place it has to be to something solid - the facing paper of mountboard, plus the 'plys' underneath, can come away (de-laminate?) So, as you say, you have the problem of making that 'something solid' look nice - IOW you have to add something around the object - butted right up to it so as not to show any MDF/whatever - and there are ways of doing that - like an exact fit reverse bevel mount, or covering your support with a facing paper, or fabric and then cutting a square (or whatever) away, slightly smaller than the item, and then glueing to the exposed support.

But with clasping/fastening and/or encapsulation methods, you can back your item with any mounting board because the supports pass through it and are secured at the back.

I strongly recommend Jim Miller's book 'The Complete Guide to Shadowboxes and Framing Objects' for some very clever solutions to problems like this.

All I'd say is that most of these methods are visible and adhesive all over the back is not, but that 'visible' is usually either only closer than normal viewing distance, or just because you know it is there, or a combination of both.

As for sealing the frame - this is good practice anyway - but no need for silicone - get some of that on the glass where you don't want it, or on your glass cleaning cloth - just throw them. Just seal the glass/mount package with tape - best tape for that is the Lineco foil one, then drop your backing board in and seal that in the normal way.

[summer-data]

totally different concept.... what about sticking it to a piece of coloured glass and framing in the usual way? we use solid glass for glass and bohle for permanent adhesive...might be a little out there....just an idea