Football shirt framing
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Twin Peaks
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Sun 15 Jul, 2007 2:45 pm
- Location: Pontesbury, Nr. Shrewsbury
- Organisation: Home sweet home
- Interests: Music (Hendrix, Zep, Blues - you get the idea), Pre-Raph Art, Photography
- Location: Pontesbury, Shrewsbury
Football shirt framing
No doubt been asked a few times before but I will ask anyway. I have a customer who is going to contact me regarding the framing of an autographed Chelsea football shirt. I have not done one before so would appreciate any advice or any links to websites that cover the subject. Any advice on pricing would also be appreciated.
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Roboframer
Re: Football shirt framing
Durraing Durraing .....
Do you think I would leave you cry-y-ing
When there's room on my Morso too
Climb up here mate and don't be crying
I can go just as fast with two
When we grow up we'll both be fra-a-mers
And our Morsos will not be toys ............
Sorry!
It's a bit like asking how to fasten a bow tie - but you can search here and on The Grumble and see some pictures and some tips.
If you cannot find the links, let me know and I'll post some, but it should be quite easy.
But anyway, in a nutshell - lay the shirt over a sheet of foam board on your table as it is to be presented, folded or otherwise.
Trace around that shape and then cut it out.
Insert that former in to the shirt and then trace around the neck - remove the former and cut the neck out - plus about 5mm.
Re-insert the former and stitch the shirt to it at the back.
Then stich the whole thing to board of choice - either using needle and thread - in from the back, through the board, then the former and the front of the shirt, but using seams with existing stitches, motifs or other concealed areas like under and/or through thicker areas like collars and cuffs - or using a tag gun which penetrates everything bar the front of the shirt.
Then fix that whole board complete with mounted shirt to something more substantial with a combination od DS tape and PVA. Tape over the back of the stitches first. Not masking tape - please!
Cut and join a deep rebated frame, cut the glass (same size as the boards your shirt is mounted to)
Clean the glass and drop it in the frame.
Make spacers from foam board, about 4mm less than your rebate - cover the spacers with the same mountboard that you have mounted the shirt on - or maybe a contrast or another colour from the shirt - whatever. (you'll have some handy offcut strips left of the same colour though!) or - if the 'lip' of your moulding is too narrow for all that - line the spacers with just the surface paper - you can peel just that off most mountboards.
It's a good idea to line the foamboard with either the mountboard or the surface paper before cutting it in to spacers.
Fix the spacers into the farme with DS tape and PVA - you now have a new rebate - drop your mounted shirt on to that and it should be almost flush at the back - check for flumbs and when happy - attack with point gun and sealing tape.
As for pricing - well we're all different. I charge £50 minimum to make a shirt frame-able - i.e. cut former, stitch shirt to former, stitch former/shirt to mount.
Then it's the price of the frame were it (say) a print with a single mount (that's my 'little black dress' for any job) Then the cost of a double mount for the foam board spacers and then the same again for lining the spacers and then a fitting charge - which I have priced per size, to cover things like fixing the mounted shirt to the backing and the flumb nightmares that these things always produce.
Hope this helps.
Do you think I would leave you cry-y-ing
When there's room on my Morso too
Climb up here mate and don't be crying
I can go just as fast with two
When we grow up we'll both be fra-a-mers
And our Morsos will not be toys ............
Sorry!
It's a bit like asking how to fasten a bow tie - but you can search here and on The Grumble and see some pictures and some tips.
If you cannot find the links, let me know and I'll post some, but it should be quite easy.
But anyway, in a nutshell - lay the shirt over a sheet of foam board on your table as it is to be presented, folded or otherwise.
Trace around that shape and then cut it out.
Insert that former in to the shirt and then trace around the neck - remove the former and cut the neck out - plus about 5mm.
Re-insert the former and stitch the shirt to it at the back.
Then stich the whole thing to board of choice - either using needle and thread - in from the back, through the board, then the former and the front of the shirt, but using seams with existing stitches, motifs or other concealed areas like under and/or through thicker areas like collars and cuffs - or using a tag gun which penetrates everything bar the front of the shirt.
Then fix that whole board complete with mounted shirt to something more substantial with a combination od DS tape and PVA. Tape over the back of the stitches first. Not masking tape - please!
Cut and join a deep rebated frame, cut the glass (same size as the boards your shirt is mounted to)
Clean the glass and drop it in the frame.
Make spacers from foam board, about 4mm less than your rebate - cover the spacers with the same mountboard that you have mounted the shirt on - or maybe a contrast or another colour from the shirt - whatever. (you'll have some handy offcut strips left of the same colour though!) or - if the 'lip' of your moulding is too narrow for all that - line the spacers with just the surface paper - you can peel just that off most mountboards.
It's a good idea to line the foamboard with either the mountboard or the surface paper before cutting it in to spacers.
Fix the spacers into the farme with DS tape and PVA - you now have a new rebate - drop your mounted shirt on to that and it should be almost flush at the back - check for flumbs and when happy - attack with point gun and sealing tape.
As for pricing - well we're all different. I charge £50 minimum to make a shirt frame-able - i.e. cut former, stitch shirt to former, stitch former/shirt to mount.
Then it's the price of the frame were it (say) a print with a single mount (that's my 'little black dress' for any job) Then the cost of a double mount for the foam board spacers and then the same again for lining the spacers and then a fitting charge - which I have priced per size, to cover things like fixing the mounted shirt to the backing and the flumb nightmares that these things always produce.
Hope this helps.
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framejunkie
- Posts: 347
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- Location: Bethnal Green, London
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Re: Football shirt framing
If its a Chelsea shirt you're framing the important thing to remember is to put the backing board where the glass would normally go. 
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prospero
- Posts: 11673
- Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
- Location: Lincolnshire
Re: Football shirt framing
Or put the hangings on the front.framejunkie wrote:If its a Chelsea shirt you're framing the important thing to remember is to put the backing board where the glass would normally go.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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The Jolly Good Framer #1
Re: Football shirt framing
I just wanted to say that your song really moved me and brought a tear to my eye.Roboframer wrote:Do you think I would leave you cry-y-ing
When there's room on my Morso too
Climb up here mate and don't be crying
I can go just as fast with two
When we grow up we'll both be fra-a-mers
And our Morsos will not be toys ............
Anyway your method for framing a football shirt is just how I do ‘em.
Do you play the didjeridu as well?