Morso vertical adjustment?

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Fri 17 Mar, 2006 9:45 pm

Hi all,

Just a little about myself first: I'm in West Wales, run a very small village Post Office/Shop, I claim to be an artist, and I'm about to launch myself into the world of framing, because as with most small shops today, you have to diversify just to stay breaking even! It's also damn handy not having to go on a 30 mile round trip TWICE (once to order, once to pick up) when I want my own stuff framing! [:D]

Now down to the problem. I bought a second hand Morso F, but to get it to the room above the shop (which will be the workshop) I had to strip it down to its major components (blade block, bed, and base) so that I could get it up the loft ladder that is sadly my only access, until such time as I can get round to making proper stairs!

Once reassembled, I managed to get the horizontal angles right by fine tuning the fences, but the joins seem to be very slightly open at the top, suggesting the machine isn't cutting straight down. It improves, but still doesn't close, if I tighten the rebate supports so that it slightly lifts the front of the moulding. I would expect that, as it changes the angle of the moulding to the blade. However, I don't think I should have to do that.

Is there a vertical adjustment I'm missing, or is it something else?

Post by **John** » Fri 17 Mar, 2006 10:06 pm

Hi Steve,

Welcome to the forum.

The only reason for the finished face of the cut not to be absolutely vertical is sideways movement of the moulding. As the blade descends, the moulding is moving slightly apart. This tends to happen more with the larger and harder profiles.

Try holding the moulding very firmly, specially on the final couple of cuts, and also try to ensure that the final cut is just a tiny sliver.

Good luck with the venture.

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Fri 17 Mar, 2006 10:14 pm

It is larger mouldings I'm having the problem with. So finger pressure might not be enough? Any suggestions for a way of clamping the mouldings without risk of damage?

Post by **John** » Fri 17 Mar, 2006 10:21 pm

Try one, or all of these: -

1. Take very small bites while gripping the moulding as firmly as you can.

2. Recruit an assistant to assist with the gripping while cutting.

3. Use clamps, taking care to pack well with a yielding material to avoid damage.

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Fri 17 Mar, 2006 10:23 pm

Ok, will try them.

Thanks, John!

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Fri 17 Mar, 2006 10:45 pm

Something just occured to me. I wonder if it is breaking through on the penultimate cut, so that on the last cut there is a chance of one or both pieces drifting

Just need to check the forward adjustment in that case.

I'll check it out tomorrow.

markw · Post by **markw** » Sat 18 Mar, 2006 8:24 am

Spit - The Morso is regarded as a straight forward machine that cuts moulding quickly, easily and accuratley right from the first time you use it. The truth is, that like any piece of machinery it has its little ways and you need to get a feel for the machine before you get perfect joints every time.

You will find quite a few tips on earlier postings but couple of points that I would look at; Have you had the blade sharpened? What sort of moulding are you cutting? How are you joining the corners and is that part of the problem?

I sat here wondering how you where going to get glass - mountboard etc up into your attic. Cant you make room in your shop?

Good luck with your new business.

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Sat 18 Mar, 2006 9:30 am

Mark, First thing I did when I bought it was to buy a new set of blades. Both blades and block were well cleaned before fitting. Like you say it may be a case of getting a feel for it, maybe building up some strength in my fingers may help

The mountboard isn't a problem getting into the workshop, but glass is another thing. At first, I will be getting them cut to order at the local glass shop (they always do me a good deal anyway, but they will give me a big discount for regular trade), but later I will have half sheets in the garage - I have plenty of room there, too. I just need a cutting table built!

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Mon 27 Mar, 2006 10:38 pm

I'm still having a problem on this one. Other posts on this site seem to refer to a set-up procedure which I can't find - is it on the member area, perhaps?

I could do with a complete how-to on Morso setup.

Keadyart · Post by **Keadyart** » Mon 27 Mar, 2006 11:13 pm

Steve,
If all else fails you can contact morso themselves -
e-mail danlist@morso-guillotines.dk
if you quote the serial number on your machine,they will send you a manual.

All the best
Brian.

Dermot · Post by **Dermot** » Wed 29 Mar, 2006 10:56 am

I have a copy of Peter Bingham’s article “Setting up the Morso” which was sponsored by Morso from Picture Business April 2003

Email me your address Dermot@matting-systems.com and I will post it to you.

Rgs

Dermot

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Fri 31 Mar, 2006 9:56 am

I think I've found the problem - The shop is a 1700's building, and as you would expect there are no true straight edges/level surfaces anywhere. To the eye, the Morso was level, but when I put a spirit level on it it was leaning forward by quite an amount.

I've shored up the floor with 1/2" ply and chocked it level. Things seem a lot better!

Dermot: I could still do with that article - send to steve at glandwr.com (change 'at' for @, I do that to prevent spambots picking up the address.)

Thanks!

Dermot · Post by **Dermot** » Fri 31 Mar, 2006 10:26 am

Steve

I only have a hard copy of this article I will not scan it due to copyright implications.......if you want the copy email me your address as I asked.

Dermot