Double frame

[Twin Peaks]

I have a customer who wants a document framed so that it is visible from both sides (it is going to be hung on a glass panel). I have seen some done with moulding on the one side and painted tape on the other. So my question is- can anyone give me some tips on doing a double frame with the same moulding on both sides. Then the best way to hang the finished article.

[gesso]

Have you chosen your moulding?
Are you going to mount both sides?
If possible reduce the depth of your front moulding down to just accommodate the total width of glazing, artwork and mounts. leaving the rear glazing flush with the back of the front frame.
I like to reduce the rear moulding down so you have in effect the profile without any depth from the rebate back.
Then fit the two profiles together. this works best on hand finished frame as you can mask the joint line around the frame edge. I then fix hanging from the top edge

[Roboframer]

If possible reduce the depth of your front moulding down to just accommodate the total width of glazing, artwork and mounts. leaving the rear glazing flush with the back of the front frame......

Or just fill an existing rebate. Glass, mount with slip, mount, artwork, mount, mount with slip, glass, would be about 10mm. Then carry on as per ...

reduce the rear moulding down so you have in effect the profile without any depth from the rebate back.
Then fit the two profiles together. this works best on hand finished frame as you can mask the joint line around the frame edge. I then fix hanging from the top edge

If you're handy with a chisel (I'm not) you could put decorative hangers between the two frames. I'd probably just fit them to the sides, protruding at the top, and use a nice braid instead of wire.

[Roboframer]

One thing I've done is this, make a simple box by scoring the sides of your mount and folding and taping, (there's a very good diagram on how to do that from Bill Henry here somewhere) but do two and paste them together so you have a 'H' with the artwork mounted in the centre.

The vertical bars of that 'H' need to be the exact size of the two frame rebates. Then strengthen those sides with foam board. If the cut edges of the mounts are visible, or even very close to the lip of the frame, colour them black or use a black core board. If there is any worry about the artwork being unsupported you could encapsulate it, in fact if there is not much spare paper to hinge to - IOW if there is a concern that hinges could be visible, then that's another instance where encapsulation is useful.

This way the two frames are relying on more than just adhesive to hold them together and the adhesive that you use could be silicone, which can be cut if ever the frames need to be separated.

[Not your average framer]

This kind of job is where hand-finishing can really make a lot of difference. The only two times I've had to do this resulted in the following two methods:

The first one consisted of one larger (outer) frame with two smaller frames inside it back to back. All three frames were rectangular section mouldings from the Simons unfinished Ramin mouldings. The outer frame was fitted with a Victorian top screw eye for hanging, which you get from Frank Scraggs, or Lion (who I think call them "Watch top" screws eyes). The Scraggs ones have a dull "antique" finish and the Lion ones have a brighter brass plated finish. I don't remember, but Ithink these may have been fixed together with silicone.

The other one had an unfinished flat wood slip fitted into the back. This one was strung across the back as normal as that what the customer wanted. I think the slip may have been retained with small turn buttons, but it was too long ago to remember.