Anyone For Chess??

[Adrian]

Hi All,

Today a customer has brought in a 'Blackwork' embroidery of a chess board....and guess what? It's to be framed so that it can hang on a wall and also be taken down and laid flat to play chess on! Just what you want as a virtual beginner!

The lacing and standard framing I can do fine, but has anyone any ideas on the best way to tackle the 'feet'? Obviously it has to be something that will not mark a wall and will be firm enough for the 'chess board' use.

The other thing of course is the glass. She wants a non-reflective, and I'm wondering if standard 2mm would be strong enough....(frame size will be 50cm x 50cm).

Any thoughts or suggestions will be welcome. Thanks in advance.

Adrian

[Roboframer]

The lacing and standard framing I can do fine, but has anyone any ideas on the best way to tackle the 'feet'? Obviously it has to be something that will not mark a wall and will be firm enough for the 'chess board' use.

For a minute I thought you'd spelled 'feat' wrong!

Why do you need feet? Why not just make sure that the frame contents fill the rebate and then back the whole frame with a felt covered board?

Ah - I know why - what about the hanging hardware

OK - do the same but with a board a bit thicker than the D rings, or whatever, with recesses for them?

OR ...... or - make another frame, like a tray, that the whole thing can sit in when required for play.

The other thing of course is the glass. She wants a non-reflective, and I'm wondering if standard 2mm would be strong enough....(frame size will be 50cm x 50cm).

Any thoughts or suggestions will be welcome. Thanks in advance.

Adrian

Well I'd suggest acrylic and make it scratchproof - that rules out non-reflective. There is AR acrylic, but viewed at an angle it loses the effect.

There is NR styrene but it'll scratch very easily.

[Adrian]

Cheers Robo - I really like the felt-backed board idea! I get the D-rings in recesses bit but I'm just wondering - excuse me if I'm being a dumb*ss - about the picture cord and how that would sit out of the way?

I've a feeling she may want picture glass, and thinking about it, I don't suppose chess boards are subject to undue strain - unless getting jumped on by a particularly bad loser so maybe it will do the job adequately.

[prospero]

I like Robo's idea about making a seperate frame to slot the frame into for playing purposes. If you got a suitable moulding (maybe the same one as the frame) and cut/joined it on it's back, so that the reabte pointed up, then it would form a nice little shelf to locate the frame in. Which would also solve your 'hiding the string' problem.
I dunno about n/f glass. Some chess games can get heated and ordinary n/f glass is more brittle than standard.

[Roboframer]

Cheers Robo - I really like the felt-backed board idea! I get the D-rings in recesses bit but I'm just wondering - excuse me if I'm being a dumb*ss - about the picture cord and how that would sit out of the way?.

You could use strap hangers that hook over 'J' hooks on the wall

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/Catalog/Produc ... p%20hanger

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/Wall-H ... 13425.aspx

Check?

[Bill Henry]

Some chess games can get heated and ordinary n/f glass is more brittle than standard.

You’re not trying to Fool us, mate, are ya?

[Moglet]

You’re not trying to Fool us, mate, are ya?

Nah, he just wanted to check, mate!

[prospero]

It's in the post.

[Moglet]

You must be 'king joking!





(Sorry... )

[prospero]

You must be 'king joking!





(Sorry... )

I'm tempted to write something like "Rook Off" at this juncture. But I am far too polite.

[Moglet]

Coulda been worse. Coulda been pawnographic.



(Serious apologies for the threadjack: just can't help myself ... )

[prospero]

Coulda been worse. Coulda been pawnographic.



(Serious apologies for the threadjack: just can't help myself ... )

Yeah....Well....Get it all out your system.

Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On Go On ....

Go On

Beter now?

[Moglet]

Been hanging out with Len again?



(Subtle one, that... )

[prospero]

yeah, bit too subtle for me.

[Moglet]

What's Len's job?

[prospero]

Oh Right. Not subtle enough.

[Moglet]

Ok. Threadjack over. (Sorry again for being such a Bad Cheetah! )



Been thinking about the wall/table/fixings issues associated with this project today. A possible solution would be to:

1. Select a decent-ish width moulding for the main frame rim, to allow for the fixing of a D-ring, plus about 15mm allowance for a rebate extension.

2.Use a flat moulding (with a depth of about 15mm) on its side as a rebate extender.

3. At the back, attach the D-rings to the main frame rim.

4. Use bumpers or a felt lining on the back edge of the rebate extender.

This solution will look neat on the wall, will avoid any contact of the d-rings with a tabletop surface, and the wire/cord will be out of view when the board is used for playing a chess game. Also, having the extension attached to the frame means that there's no problem regarding its safe storage when the chessboard is hanging on the wall, and it's less likely to get damaged.

[markw]

I think if you combine some of the replies here you have your answer - keep it simple.
Deep rebate moulding essential. NRG should be ok - customer must be aware that its not toughened glass - if they want it that strong then they cant have NRG.
space the glass away from the textile with something like econospace.

Make sure you pack the back out so that the back is slightly recessed - use a back board with enough strength to take riveted d rings - cover the back board with a suitable material as previously mentioned - I would fix it in the middle around the area where you are going to rivet the d rings and leave the rest loose - with adequate excess material to go over the frame edge. This can be glued in place after fixing in frame and trimmed back to make a neat finish to the frame back.

The recessed back with riveted hangers will get around the problem of fixings scratching table surfaces. spacing the glass - and adequately packing the back will ensure the textile is framed to a reasonable standard - the only shortcoming I can see is the method used to attach the material to the back of the frame will make glass replacement difficult - but not impossible.

[Adrian]

Coulda been worse. Coulda been pawnographic.



(Serious apologies for the threadjack: just can't help myself ... )

No worries Moglet - I always enjoy browsing these exchanges! and I guess my opening 'gambit' kind of invited a few chess-related gags....

Thanks all for the detailed help and suggestions - not sure I'm quite getting all of it but I think as markw says, keeping it simple and putting together something along the lines of the ideas suggested should just about get me there! Will let you know how I get on.....(if it works!)

[Moglet]

You're a good sport, Adrian!

Good luck with the project. Do be sure to let us know how you get on.