Fitting spacers to moulding

[Pharos Framing]

I'm just about to do my first framed rugby shirt and am thinking of using a deep rebate moulding like Lion's EDR mouldings (on page 34 of their catalogue). They sell 'matching' glass spacers to create the depth for the box frame.

My question is how do people usually fix these spacers to the main moulding? Am I right in thinking I create a smaller mitred frame out of the spacer material and then attach it inside the 'main' frame allowing 2mm for the glass between the top of the spacer and the moulding rebate? Is glue alone sufficient or do you try to underpin the joint between the moulding and the spacer?

No doubt the answer is fairly straightforward - just wanted to get some advice. Thanks in advance.

[Not your average framer]

I mitre the spacer to size, then glue and underpin it together. If it's quite a deep spacer, I may underpin from the front and the back. When underpinning into thin sections it is usually not a good policy to use deep wedges, so two short wedges in from the front and the back can be a smart move.

A few things to watch out for:

Even with relatively hard wood, narrow sections can easily crush to a noticable amount due to the pressure from the pressure pad, so take precautions! As you will almost certainly have some left over scraps after cutting your spacer material, it is a simple matter to place some scraps inside of the mitre which you are joining so that they will take some of the pressure as well. (Unfortunately many suppliers have switched from making spacers from nice hard ramin to sof and squidgy obeche, so watch out).

I generally cut the spacers to be a nice "slide in" fit, when fitting all four spacer sections into place and then shave off a further 0.5mm before joining them together. This means that the slight swelling at each mitre caused by underpinning has been allowed for and it should be a good fit. Sometimes a light sandpapering on the outside of one or more corners may prove beneficial to get a nice fit.

Fixing the back in place with framers points will hold the whole thing together, if the "right" amount of pressure is applied when fixing. Those who like to fix the back in place using staples may find it difficult to keep the glass tightly in position, as some sizes or types of staples have far less grip in the moulding than a framers point and may give a little.

[Roboframer]

Those spacers are 7mm wide so maybe you could underpin them at a push, both sides too, as long as the wedge at the front does not show.

However, there is no need to, your main frame holds it - woodglue it in place along the length of the rebate (no need to glue the corners, but no harm in doing so) with a few dabs of double sided tape just to hold it while the glue dries and don't finally assemble until the glue has dried.

I'd mitre the 4 pieces to fit tight, but not so tight you have to squeeze them in. Clean and insert the glass, then put all 4 spacers in place - take one out, glue & ATG - re-insert, then the next, etc until all 4 sides are back. The reason for this is that if you have them all out, glue and ATG one and put it in, you could put it in with all the play taken up on one side and that will give you a problem when you put the last one in.

Only problem with gluing to the rebate is future glass replacement, but these spacers are so thin that if you don't they can bow into the frame, esp on a larger frame.

I actually prefer to match the spacer to the mounting board the shirt is attached to, rather than the outer frame and I use foamboard covered with the same colour mountboard.

Attach mountboard to foamboard before cutting spacer strips with PVA and a few dabs of ATG to hold things in place while the glue dries; attach spacers to rebate the same way. This method does not restrict you to the depth that a pre-made spacer does.

I also test the length of spacers with offcuts, rather than risk wasting the foamboard I've gone to the trouble of attaching foamboard to.

If using these wooden spacers I err on the side of caution - aim for a slightly too long piece and trim down - you can't make a too-short thing longer!

Good luck and post a photo!

[Roboframer]

I also test the length of spacers with offcuts, rather than risk wasting the foamboard I've gone to the trouble of attaching foamboard to.

Red should read 'mountboard' (short edit time)

[Pharos Framing]

Thanks to both of you for your advice...I now have a clearer idea of how to go about things and what to look out for! Will post a pic of my humble effort when it's done!

[Jonny2morsos]

I use the method(s) as described by Robo' above but I tend to shy away from finished spacers due to the cost preferring to finish my own using those tapes designed for deep bevels.

Colourmount make a range but in a limited range of colours and Crescent now offer a wider range but both of these do restrict you to their respective mountboards if you need a nice match. Lion are now offering spacers covered in similar tapes and not being at the office I cannot look up whose they use....Daler springs to mind but a quick check in their catalogue will give you the answer. Check how much of a premium you are paying them for putting the tape on for you though!

Don't feel restricted to using spacers provided by framing suppliers. The last job I did used a plain pine stripwood moulding which I got from the local timber supplier and then covered in Colourmount gold bevel tape. Also there is the option of getting out some frame paint or stains...

John.

[Not your average framer]

I actually prefer to match the spacer to the mounting board the shirt is attached to, rather than the outer frame and I use foamboard covered with the same colour mountboard.

The slight give in foamboard also helps to make a good tight fit against the glass.

I'm also with John on matching the spacer to the mountboard as it always looks the business!

[Roboframer]

The beauty of mountboard stuck to foamboard is that you can use those long thin strips that you'd either throw out or use for a slip mat ..... and then throw out.

Long thin strips of mountboard though - not foamboard - well, that is if you are using a wall mounted cutter to cut them like I do. Ever tried cutting a one inch strip off something only 5 inches wide on one of those? Chances are it will be wider one end than the other - you need a long 'base' to remove any risk of movement.

So, here's what I do - stick that (say) 32x5" offcut to one end of a large sheet of foamboard and cut strips of the desired width until you run out. Then cut the lengths to size.

[Roboframer]

....those tapes designed for deep bevels.

Colourmount make a range but in a limited range of colours and Crescent now offer a wider range but both of these do restrict you to their respective mountboards if you need a nice match. .... Colourmount gold bevel tape.

John.

If I want a paper thickness instead of a board thickness, I can still match any mountboard I carry - perfectly -by peeling off the surface paper, or the surface paper plus a ply, whatever - and again, from those long, thin throw-aways.

3mm foamboard plus mountboard = 4.5mm (or so) - ample to hold the glass in most cases - if the frame lip is so narrow that the cut edge of the mountboard would show I could either peel off the surface paper, or colour the edge black ..... or use black core mountboard if it suits/matches